seems like you've had this problem for 4 years... Get a manual... test the temp sensors first, then work your way to the power pack. These power packs can short and kick into S.L.O.W. mode.
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I am looking for a good Johnson mechanic in the Northern Kentucky area. Would prefer someone who does side work and is reliable. I have the same problem for a couple years with a 115 hp Johnson Faststrike. Motor starts fine and runs fine but at high speed I get steady warning horn. Turn it off and back on and it is back on plane. I cannot figure it out and some help.
seems like you've had this problem for 4 years... Get a manual... test the temp sensors first, then work your way to the power pack. These power packs can short and kick into S.L.O.W. mode.
Are you fairly mechanically inclined and patient ? You can do most of this your self.
If this motor has a VRO on it the continuous warning sound at wide open throttle means no oil . but I really need to know what year it is. If this is a vro system it should have a oil tank for 2 stroke oil and you could have a problem with it as well .
Another thing to check is if the water pump is keeping up at high speed is there plenty of water coming out of the weep tube or pee tube if not your not getting enough water to cool the motor and it is running hot .. Now it could be as simple as the fuel lines and is the first place i would start if you are using any thing fuel related from walmart immediately throw it away and stop using it and look into a 100% fuel line and filter change ..
Kentucky is a dumping ground for bad fuel and this includes mixing it with ether or heptane methanol and ethanol this stuff is hell on fuel lines and aluminum . If you do buy a manual DO NOT get a seloc manuals there junk get a full blown dealer manual that has all the info you need to fix your motor those seloc and clymber ( and some others ) manuals are basic fixes taken from the full blown dealer manual and they leave out too much detail .
Ditto in the Walmart fuel lines. I was having problems. A mechanic looked in my boat for two seconds and said-there's your problem. He replaced the 19 dollar Walmart fuel line and bulb with a 50 dollar OMC one. That's the line that goes to the tank.
Another mechanic put the Walmart line on there. Needless to say I never went back to the first mechanic.
*** Thanks for the post olgreenboat.
GeoFisher liked this post
no problem peter
For the life of me I still can't figure out why they let you use plastic tanks in boat and autos ..
speaking of fuel line. Napa offers braided hose that protects the rubber from dry rotting in the sun.
GeoFisher liked this post
Its not the outside of the hose it's the inside . Here is the problem with fuel lines if you want a fuel line that is resistant to alcohol you just use silicone but regular gasoline will eat it up were alcohol and ether will eat rubber so they have to find a happy middle here and that leaves us with fuel lines that will still fail over time so you still need to change them every so often .. Fuel pump diaphragms and fuel pump filters fall in here too as the plastic there made of is at beast just resistant and will make plastic very brittle this also falls in with the plastic gas tanks.. They want you to use USCG approved SAEJ1527 hose and it's illegal to use anything else .. All gas has ethanol in it but if think about it try to buy your fuel out side of town the farther away the better and stay away from the big stations like thortons kroger and such the little mom and pop stores will have better gas most of the time .
Now about plastic gas tanks the use of these tanks are like a lot of other things taking from NASCAR but nascar tanks has a bladder in them that does not rupture your car and boat tank doesn't I have seen more then one of these plastic tanks fail and all of them a hair line crack in the bottom on the corner of the tank they didn't leak a lot at one time but they were seeping fuel none the less . Now i know there is going to a lot of you thinking well I have had my tank for 10 years and not one drop of fuel yet . Not me that thing would of been replaced a long time ago .. What kind of tank do i have you ask Its metal Johnson that i rebuilt . Had one plastic tank second year it had a hair line crack ..
Well I can go on for ever about this stuff but in the end folks check your fuel lines man if there hard and or seem stiff or there really soft and mushy replace the dam things its cheep maintenance ..
That was one of the first things I replaced, since the horn means either over heating or fuel restriction. This thing has me stumped.Ditto in the Walmart fuel lines. I was having problems. A mechanic looked in my boat for two seconds and said-there's your problem. He replaced the 19 dollar Walmart fuel line and bulb with a 50 dollar OMC one. That's the line that goes to the tank.
Another mechanic put the Walmart line on there. Needless to say I never went back to the first mechanic.
*** Thanks for the post olgreenboat.
I have a plastic tank, but it seems fine. I do not smell any gas after being stored.Its not the outside of the hose it's the inside . Here is the problem with fuel lines if you want a fuel line that is resistant to alcohol you just use silicone but regular gasoline will eat it up were alcohol and ether will eat rubber so they have to find a happy middle here and that leaves us with fuel lines that will still fail over time so you still need to change them every so often .. Fuel pump diaphragms and fuel pump filters fall in here too as the plastic there made of is at beast just resistant and will make plastic very brittle this also falls in with the plastic gas tanks.. They want you to use USCG approved SAEJ1527 hose and it's illegal to use anything else .. All gas has ethanol in it but if think about it try to buy your fuel out side of town the farther away the better and stay away from the big stations like thortons kroger and such the little mom and pop stores will have better gas most of the time .
Now about plastic gas tanks the use of these tanks are like a lot of other things taking from NASCAR but nascar tanks has a bladder in them that does not rupture your car and boat tank doesn't I have seen more then one of these plastic tanks fail and all of them a hair line crack in the bottom on the corner of the tank they didn't leak a lot at one time but they were seeping fuel none the less . Now i know there is going to a lot of you thinking well I have had my tank for 10 years and not one drop of fuel yet . Not me that thing would of been replaced a long time ago .. What kind of tank do i have you ask Its metal Johnson that i rebuilt . Had one plastic tank second year it had a hair line crack ..
Well I can go on for ever about this stuff but in the end folks check your fuel lines man if there hard and or seem stiff or there really soft and mushy replace the dam things its cheep maintenance ..
The boat has a 95 Johnson Fast Strike, it does have an oil reserve and the bulb pumps up firm and uses oil. The horn chart says it is either a fuel restriction or over heating.Are you fairly mechanically inclined and patient ? You can do most of this your self.
If this motor has a VRO on it the continuous warning sound at wide open throttle means no oil . but I really need to know what year it is. If this is a vro system it should have a oil tank for 2 stroke oil and you could have a problem with it as well .
Another thing to check is if the water pump is keeping up at high speed is there plenty of water coming out of the weep tube or pee tube if not your not getting enough water to cool the motor and it is running hot .. Now it could be as simple as the fuel lines and is the first place i would start if you are using any thing fuel related from walmart immediately throw it away and stop using it and look into a 100% fuel line and filter change ..
Kentucky is a dumping ground for bad fuel and this includes mixing it with ether or heptane methanol and ethanol this stuff is hell on fuel lines and aluminum . If you do buy a manual DO NOT get a seloc manuals there junk get a full blown dealer manual that has all the info you need to fix your motor those seloc and clymber ( and some others ) manuals are basic fixes taken from the full blown dealer manual and they leave out too much detail .
I replaced the water pump and the impeller. I replaced the fuel line and bulb with an OMC. I had the carbs rebuilt.
I am just stumped. Starts fine, runs fine wide open for a while, horn goes off and goes into rough idle. Turn it off and restart and it runs fine for awhile then does it again.
I can do some things but other things I am not sure of so I was looking for some help. Not the greatest mechanic there is and am not confident on boat motors.
Check wires, especially grounds, they cause strange things to happen.