I like the wood in the back ground of #4. It's more symmetrical than the others. Symmetry is important to me .
If you have a DSLR type camera and can change or modify the exposure settings then you can under expose or over expose for different objects in the scene.
The fish itself looks over exposed in the picture as the back ground is all dark. I'm guessing that it's just a plastic mold for the fish? No paint on the mode yet? Hopefully you will show us some of the pictures of the finished SM bass when it's done.
When you take a picture and use the entire scene for the exposure control and the majority of the scene is dark the lighter objects in the picture are often over exposed. What I do is use spot monitoring for the exposure control and focus on the fish itself and expose the picture for the fish only. That way the exposure of the picture is based on the light coming off just the fish and the darker back ground. The same thing works best when you are taking a picture of someone with a white back ground surrounding them. I get in close to the persons face and expose for the light coming off their face. I save or hold that exposure setting, back up again and focus on their face then take the picture. If you expose for all the scene with lots of white in the back ground the face of the person will be too dark. All that white snow in the back ground will make the exposure shorter or let in less light so that the White snow won't be over exposed. But if the main subject is the person's face and not the snowy back ground you want the exposure to let in more light so that the darker face of the person will have more light exposure on it.