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  1. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Columbia
    Posts
    816
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    Just wanted to update...finally got my 1022 around 7-8 days ago. Install was not hard but a little more in depth than pervious devices I have installed. I managed to get on the water today but only for about two hours. I only made a dozen or so cast and that was when I was fine tuning the setting to see my bait. This picture is horrible because I have yet to get the settings fine tuned and it was in the bright sun. After this picture was took I did manage to get it a lot more clear and in depth. I managed to find the setting where I could cast a DT10 and watch it dive, work thru the water column and then come up at the boat. I wish I took a picture of that screen but I forgot. I also found a school of bait fish and watch them swim around. I found what I suspect to be some crappie and saw them move around some but they pretty much stayed in one location. I also saw what I feel confident was some bass and I saw them swimming on the screen. I am just in the infancy stage of learning this unit. Hopefully once I get it figured out I can use it as a tool to put more fish in the boat. If not then it will be a neat and expensive toy to play with...LOL

    My only disappointment was perspective view BUT I was never in a situation where I should have been using it. Perspective view is best for shallow water and I don't think I ever had the unit in anything less than 10 ft. I was pleasantly pleased with forward and down view. Based on how I fish for bass I doubt I will ever use down view but I looked at it just to see what it looks like. I can see forward view being a tool I can use once I learn how to fine tune it. I think when the conditions get right perspective will be a player based on my style of fishing...if not I definitely know forward view will be something I will use on the main lake.
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  2. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Campbellsville, KY
    Posts
    1,890
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    Quote Originally Posted by R19 View Post
    Just wanted to update...finally got my 1022 around 7-8 days ago. Install was not hard but a little more in depth than pervious devices I have installed. I managed to get on the water today but only for about two hours. I only made a dozen or so cast and that was when I was fine tuning the setting to see my bait. This picture is horrible because I have yet to get the settings fine tuned and it was in the bright sun. After this picture was took I did manage to get it a lot more clear and in depth. I managed to find the setting where I could cast a DT10 and watch it dive, work thru the water column and then come up at the boat. I wish I took a picture of that screen but I forgot. I also found a school of bait fish and watch them swim around. I found what I suspect to be some crappie and saw them move around some but they pretty much stayed in one location. I also saw what I feel confident was some bass and I saw them swimming on the screen. I am just in the infancy stage of learning this unit. Hopefully once I get it figured out I can use it as a tool to put more fish in the boat. If not then it will be a neat and expensive toy to play with...LOL

    My only disappointment was perspective view BUT I was never in a situation where I should have been using it. Perspective view is best for shallow water and I don't think I ever had the unit in anything less than 10 ft. I was pleasantly pleased with forward and down view. Based on how I fish for bass I doubt I will ever use down view but I looked at it just to see what it looks like. I can see forward view being a tool I can use once I learn how to fine tune it. I think when the conditions get right perspective will be a player based on my style of fishing...if not I definitely know forward view will be something I will use on the main lake.
    Youre picture is a lot better than mine. I have the stupid ghost tree. I can make my screen look that clear but then i cant see bait or fish. What are your settings? You can text em to me if you want

  3. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Columbia
    Posts
    816
    Post Thanks / Like
    I watched several youtube videos and took down some notes. Now beware when watching youtube videos because there is a lot of people out there posting content just wanting to be a youtube star. There is some videos posted that actually make the unit look bad because their screen is full of clutter and distortion. I found the best ones are from people who make, sell, install and actually have electronics classes on how to use the units.

    With that being said Garmin has what's called Webinar videos on youtube that are helpful. RMP Russell Marine Products has some good videos but they were mainly install tips. The Bass Tank has what I consider an excellent how to adjust video. The funny thing is after I watch the videos and took some notes I found a post on BBC where someone broke down The Bass Tank video into a cliff note version. I kept my notes but ended up printing off the notes from The Bass Tank that were posted on BBC and that is what I go buy to set up my unit.

    Now there has been some debate over what I am about to say next and all I will say is I respect other peoples opinion but if you want max performance it needs to be wired like Garmin suggest in their install manual...the power wires go directly to the battery and are on a disconnect with a fused link near the battery. If extending the factory wire up to 15 ft use 10 AWG.

    The above statement can be found in the Garmin install diagram. The next statement is purely my opinion...a lot of people are using 12 AWG factory boat wiring and tapping into an existing circuit. The processer inside these units units require clean un-interrupted power. Were not dealing with old 2D sonar from 15 years ago, we are dealing with a computer processor hooked to a 12V battery. Having the unit wired direct to the battery eliminates any electrical interference. Having appropriate AWG wire size ensures no voltage drop. If anyone is having a flickering screen throughout the day or if they have a screen that is slow to start displaying a picture once the unit is turned on or if they experience a low voltage alarm when they crank the motor there is a good chance they have inadequate wiring. The most common thing people do is buy a bigger, more powerful battery. This is a band aid to mask the real problem. So if you want max screen clarity and performance wire as Garmin suggest. Garmin does not suggest it but I went with a custom wire harness. I chose a Sonar Pro harness because they solder and heat shrink your factory Garmin plugs to their custom made harness. The Bass Tank and Sea Clear also has a custom harness but they require you making a couple wire connections. Both those harnesses are DYI. The Sonar Pro is also DYI but you must send them your factory plugs so they can install them to the harness. None of the options are cheap but I think The Bass Tank harness is on a 50% off sale. Some may say everything I type in this last paragraph is not necessary and its overkill. To them I respect their opinion but I think the extra mile I went will pay off with a clear picture and no voltage issue.

    Although I have only had mine out once I have learned thru research that in order to get max clarity and max detail a person needs to fine tune the settings for the specific water conditions you are in. Now that does not mean your constantly tinkering with settings but the settings for the main lake might need to be fine tuned if you run up a creek into a different color water. Water clarity plays a big factor on how effective the beam can broadcast the picture. The setting you have for Green will need to be fine tuned for Cumberland due to different water.


    A good explanation of what each setting does...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2AiSOmX5PA&t=39s


    I found this to be a great video...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SjxesbJtuk


    Here is the cliff note version of the above video. I printed it off and use it 'for reference"...

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=1097214
    Likes TimE liked this post

  4. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    .
    Posts
    1,102
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by R19 View Post
    I watched several youtube videos and took down some notes. Now beware when watching youtube videos because there is a lot of people out there posting content just wanting to be a youtube star. There is some videos posted that actually make the unit look bad because their screen is full of clutter and distortion. I found the best ones are from people who make, sell, install and actually have electronics classes on how to use the units.

    With that being said Garmin has what's called Webinar videos on youtube that are helpful. RMP Russell Marine Products has some good videos but they were mainly install tips. The Bass Tank has what I consider an excellent how to adjust video. The funny thing is after I watch the videos and took some notes I found a post on BBC where someone broke down The Bass Tank video into a cliff note version. I kept my notes but ended up printing off the notes from The Bass Tank that were posted on BBC and that is what I go buy to set up my unit.

    Now there has been some debate over what I am about to say next and all I will say is I respect other peoples opinion but if you want max performance it needs to be wired like Garmin suggest in their install manual...the power wires go directly to the battery and are on a disconnect with a fused link near the battery. If extending the factory wire up to 15 ft use 10 AWG.

    The above statement can be found in the Garmin install diagram. The next statement is purely my opinion...a lot of people are using 12 AWG factory boat wiring and tapping into an existing circuit. The processer inside these units units require clean un-interrupted power. Were not dealing with old 2D sonar from 15 years ago, we are dealing with a computer processor hooked to a 12V battery. Having the unit wired direct to the battery eliminates any electrical interference. Having appropriate AWG wire size ensures no voltage drop. If anyone is having a flickering screen throughout the day or if they have a screen that is slow to start displaying a picture once the unit is turned on or if they experience a low voltage alarm when they crank the motor there is a good chance they have inadequate wiring. The most common thing people do is buy a bigger, more powerful battery. This is a band aid to mask the real problem. So if you want max screen clarity and performance wire as Garmin suggest. Garmin does not suggest it but I went with a custom wire harness. I chose a Sonar Pro harness because they solder and heat shrink your factory Garmin plugs to their custom made harness. The Bass Tank and Sea Clear also has a custom harness but they require you making a couple wire connections. Both those harnesses are DYI. The Sonar Pro is also DYI but you must send them your factory plugs so they can install them to the harness. None of the options are cheap but I think The Bass Tank harness is on a 50% off sale. Some may say everything I type in this last paragraph is not necessary and its overkill. To them I respect their opinion but I think the extra mile I went will pay off with a clear picture and no voltage issue.

    Although I have only had mine out once I have learned thru research that in order to get max clarity and max detail a person needs to fine tune the settings for the specific water conditions you are in. Now that does not mean your constantly tinkering with settings but the settings for the main lake might need to be fine tuned if you run up a creek into a different color water. Water clarity plays a big factor on how effective the beam can broadcast the picture. The setting you have for Green will need to be fine tuned for Cumberland due to different water.


    A good explanation of what each setting does...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2AiSOmX5PA&t=39s


    I found this to be a great video...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SjxesbJtuk


    Here is the cliff note version of the above video. I printed it off and use it 'for reference"...

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=1097214
    Your last paragraph makes perfect sense to me. I have shown you lowrance 2d and down imaging and maybe side imaging. They are impeccable, you can count every single crappie on a tree. The key is they were took at Cumberland or dale in clear water. I don’t even get close to same results at home or on green even. Mega is ok in 20’ range but is a consistent loser compared to lowrance ss3d. Truth be told I know how to operate and adjust lowrance with just a few taps on screen, hummingbird takes an engineer to adjust.

    I fish dirty flats mostly and I have never seen a unit perform up to its billing, I think it is imperative to adjust electronics quickly and easily. So I guess your last paragraph made a lot of sense to me.

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