C&T Marine in Nicholasville. 859-887-4786
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Can anyone recommend a place to take my new-to-me motor and trailer? Currently having trailer brake/hub problems and I’d like just a general check up on the motor and replace the impeller and filters if needed. Trailer is a 2008 Marine Master with Vault hubs and the motor is 2008 Pro XS 225.
I live in Harrodsburg and would like to keep it as local as possible since towing in its current condition isn’t ideal. I called Marine Works and was told they weren’t taking any customers that didn’t buy their boat from them because they’re too swamped. They recommended “The Boat Doctor” who is also in Harrodsburg. I’m waiting on a call back from him, but wanted to see if there were other options around too.
C&T Marine in Nicholasville. 859-887-4786
try David's trailer sales in nicholasville for your trailer , can't help for the motor everyone is swamped.
Thanks for the input, guys. I’m getting the trailer looked at by a tire/lube shop here in Harrodsburg. I didn’t want to tow it very far with potential brake and hub problems. I’ll worry about getting the motor looked at after the trailer is up and running again. The motor runs great so far, so it’s just for peace of mind.
If you think your having brake issues you can disable them. Boat trailers operate on a brake surge system. At the tongue of the trailer look for a slot that is typically half moon shape. Often times there will be a plug/key/whatever its called hanging on a steel cable near the slot. When that key/plug/whatever its called is inserted into the slot this prevents the trailer from surging forward and compressing the actuator...basically disables the brakes.
That key/tab/whatever its called is intended for temporary use when backing up an incline. If your going to use it for a more permeant disable of the brakes you will need to use tape, zip tie or some other means to ensure it stays in the slot while towing.
On drum brake system you have to have what I described above to back your trailer up an incline. If you have disc brakes you have a extra wire that's connected to you reverse lights. This wire becomes hot and actuates a solenoid that does the same function as the key/plug/whatever its called. All surge brakes have some way of being disabled because when you back a trailer up an incline backwards the breaks will lock up due to the weight of the trailer being shoved towards the truck, thus compressing the actuator to apply the brakes.
A little unknow FYI that most people don't think about... with boat trailers being surge breaks you have ZERO boat trailer brakes going backwards down a ramp. Going backwards up an incline they will lock up because the weight of the boat will compress/actuate the brakes ,however when going down an incline there is no movement of the boat towards the truck to activate the breaks.
Yep i found that out when using a side by side to back mine into the garage. First trailer i'd had with brakes & there wasn't a tool to disable them so i took a tool that you use to remove a wheel from a grinder & made one to keep in a box with fuses etc. A buddys back up switch didn't work once when we pulled in close to a curb & then he couldn't back up because the trailer brakes locked. Thankfully i had my home made trailer brake unlock tool in that box in storage. lol
A little unknow FYI that most people don't think about... with boat trailers being surge breaks you have ZERO boat trailer brakes going backwards down a ramp. Going backwards up an incline they will lock up because the weight of the boat will compress/actuate the brakes ,however when going down an incline there is no movement of the boat towards the truck to activate the breaks.
From the factory my bypass key was installed on a wire cable and hangs near the slot where its inserted when needed. If the OP is not familiar with what I am talking about maybe these links will help...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBjS6G97azA
https://www.pacifictrailers.com/prod...BoCFOYQAvD_BwE
Thanks for the info. I’m familiar with how the brakes work. The problem I’m having is that the pads are dragging even when the brake actuator in the tongue is fully extended. A lockout key will not be any help in this situation.If you think your having brake issues you can disable them. Boat trailers operate on a brake surge system. At the tongue of the trailer look for a slot that is typically half moon shape. Often times there will be a plug/key/whatever its called hanging on a steel cable near the slot. When that key/plug/whatever its called is inserted into the slot this prevents the trailer from surging forward and compressing the actuator...basically disables the brakes.
That key/tab/whatever its called is intended for temporary use when backing up an incline. If your going to use it for a more permeant disable of the brakes you will need to use tape, zip tie or some other means to ensure it stays in the slot while towing.
On drum brake system you have to have what I described above to back your trailer up an incline. If you have disc brakes you have a extra wire that's connected to you reverse lights. This wire becomes hot and actuates a solenoid that does the same function as the key/plug/whatever its called. All surge brakes have some way of being disabled because when you back a trailer up an incline backwards the breaks will lock up due to the weight of the trailer being shoved towards the truck, thus compressing the actuator to apply the brakes.
A little unknow FYI that most people don't think about... with boat trailers being surge breaks you have ZERO boat trailer brakes going backwards down a ramp. Going backwards up an incline they will lock up because the weight of the boat will compress/actuate the brakes ,however when going down an incline there is no movement of the boat towards the truck to activate the breaks.
the brake calipers are possibly sticking. you can rebuild them usually with not much effort. if the caliper walls are not pitted too bad, you can clean the walls up , and replace the o-ring seal.