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Thread: FLOAT&FLY

  1. #1
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    FLOAT&FLY

    I have read numerous articles on this ,but i am confused about how you rig the 3 way swivel. is the bobber tied to it ,if so how much line ,or is it clipped?

  2. #2
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    RE: FLOAT&FLY

    >I have read numerous articles on
    >this ,but i am confused
    >about how you rig the
    >3 way swivel. is the
    >bobber tied to it ,if
    >so how much line ,or
    >is it clipped?

    If you are using the 3way swivel set-up for FnF ....... the float is clipped on one of the O rings of the swivel. One of the other two O rings is where you tie your main line (from the rod/reel). The third O ring is where you tie the line you have your "fly"(jig) tied on. The depth of the jig is determined by how much line you use ... typically 8-15ft. (now you know why you need such a long rod !)
    For those that don't like so many "connections" ..... set the depth of the jig, by measuring out X amount of line - then wrapping the line around the float "clip" (3-4 wraps). No "extra" knots, or weight (from the 3way swivel) is involved ... and the line wraps, around the float clip, keep the line from slipping thru the clip -- and changing your jig's depth (+/-). ........cp




  3. #3
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    RE: FLOAT&FLY

    Thanks that helps much.I have not seen any photos, it sounded awkward.

  4. #4
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    RE: FLOAT&FLY

    No need for the 3-way for FNF. I use 6 lb green P line and wrap the line 3 times around the bottom clip of the bobber. Works great for me. Landed a 6-4 and 6-6 plus several over 3 on this setup without problems (See posts on KY Board) I know several of the guides use Fireline from the reel to one swivel thn Vanish or Transition from the 2nd ring to the jig and hook the bobber to the 3rd ring. This is all well and good and I am sure it works but too much trouble for me. Too many knots to tie and with wet cold hands all more difficult. More knots more chances to break off I believe.

    Tight Lines

  5. #5
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    RE: FLOAT&FLY

    Thats practical wisdom El/ thre knot is the weakest part of your line. The more knots you have the greater the chance of having one break.
    This is also why a very limber light action rod and a reel that has the ability to back reel is important. I use 4lb low vis sensation I tried using 6 or 8 as many others have mentioned but just did not get the strikes. I use duck feather fly's I think they fall slower and have a more natural look to the fish.I have had a lot of luck with ones that has either a touch of orange or light blue.
    With all the talk about the FnF I might add this guys. This is an alternate finesse method that works when the conditions are very bad. The water very cold and the fish suspending. It is not a cure all for winter time slow bites. I fish the fly with sucussess but I still catch more smallies between Dec and Feb on a hair fly with pork or Silver Buddy. A lot of guys tie one on use it for a while dont get bit and give up.It is like in the summer. If the fish are hitting a PnG you can crank or throw a topwater all day long and not get bit.
    It is another tool. Fish2win

  6. #6
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    RE: FLOAT&FLY

    WRONG!!!!!
    The wraps around the bobber will weaken your line MUCH more than the Palomar Knot will. How many fish have you guys that wrap the line lost by breakoffs at the bobber?
    The Coan Method may create 3 knots, but if you use the Palomar Knot, there is no weakening of the line by a knot. Tests indicate that the Palomar is actually as strong as the line.
    Not to mention the fact that the Power Pro or Fire Line is a stronger line that you can tie that almost NO smallmouth COULD break anyway. Only the Fluorocarbon line will break and you can use up to 8 LB test with Fluorocarbon although I recommend no bigger than 6 Lb.
    Unless you rewrap your line about every 10 to 15 casts the wraps will compress and fish will compress the line. Each time you weaken the line more by crushing it, or it wraps around itself cutting into itself.
    Jim Dicken
    www.FloatandFly.com

  7. #7
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    RE: FLOAT&FLY

    There's only one wrong way to do something and that's only wrong after the first time it fails.

    I've caught fish using the swivel and not using the swivel. It's actually a preference depends on the fishing conditions.

    Billy



    Redneckshadrap
    www.thecreekbank.com
    redneckshadrap@insightbb.com



  8. #8
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    RE: FLOAT&FLY

    I agree with Jim 100%...although it's a pain to retie if you break off (snags), I think the ability to use different line on your spool/leader is a huge bonus as well. I'd never spool up with flouro, but it makes an awesome leader (same stuff we troll with on the Great Lakes).

    If you're losing fish due to snapped lines, it's easily fixed by backing off your drag.

  9. #9
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    RE: FLOAT&FLY

    I would also have to agree with Jim on this matter. I have fished numerous times with Bob Coan and discussed this matter with him. He logs numerous days on the water and rarely breaks off at the bobber. The weakest point in the three way swivel rig would be at the jig. If the fish is hooked deeply it increases your odds of breaking off. Unless you are very good at back reeling instead of relying on the reels drag, I would not use the three wrap method.

  10. #10
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    Devils Advocate vs the Experts

    >WRONG!!!!!
    >The wraps around the bobber will
    >weaken your line MUCH more
    >than the Palomar Knot will.
    >How many fish have you
    >guys that wrap the line
    >lost by breakoffs at the
    >bobber?
    >The Coan Method may create 3
    >knots, but if you use
    >the Palomar Knot, there is
    >no weakening of the line
    >by a knot. Tests indicate
    >that the Palomar is actually
    >as strong as the line.
    >
    >Not to mention the fact that
    >the Power Pro or Fire
    >Line is a stronger line
    >that you can tie that
    >almost NO smallmouth COULD break
    >anyway. Only the Fluorocarbon line
    >will break and you can
    >use up to 8 LB
    >test with Fluorocarbon although I
    >recommend no bigger than 6
    >Lb.
    >Unless you rewrap your line about
    >every 10 to 15 casts
    >the wraps will compress and
    >fish will compress the line.
    >Each time you weaken the
    >line more by crushing it,
    >or it wraps around itself
    >cutting into itself.
    >Jim Dicken
    >www.FloatandFly.com

    You guys are the 'experts' on this ... I've never FnF fished for Bass. But, for the sake of arguement (in a gentlemanly manner, of course):
    WHY would a line "wrapped" around a solid brass bobber clamp, be any more likely to break than a "knot" tied around a solid brass ring of a 3way swivel ?? The wrapped line isn't "crushed" by the power of the bobber spring. If it is wrapped in side by side coils on the bobber hook, what's to make it cross over itself and thus dig into itself, when the pressure of fighting a fish is applied ? A wrapped line is the same pound test, anywhere along its length ... and any knot is a crushed line at the point where the "wraps" go around the main line. Even a Palomar is double wrapped around the hook/clamp .. plus the crushing effect of the "knot" wrapping. Why would one be any stronger than the other ? The dynamics just don't seem to be all that much different.

    I'm thinking in terms of "perfect" knot tying, and side by side line wraps on the bobber stem ... not haphazardly doing either one. It would seem that side by side line wraps would be just as strong as the double looped line, of a Palomar knot, wrapped around the swivel ring. Could it be the flurocarbon line that's at fault here ?? Does it not take well to being wrapped in tiny coils ? How do the two methods compare - when flurocarbon line is used from reel to jig (tied vs wrapped) ... taking out the extra pound test factor of PowerPro/Fireline ?? And if you "need" to use PP/FL ... why not wrap IT around the bobber stem, and tie the flurocarbon to it using UNI knots ??

    I'm not asking these questions to start any arguments, polarize the believers in the two versions, or compromise the loyalty of either camp to their respective mentors ... I'm seriously interested in hearing both sides views. ...... cp




  11. #11
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    RE: Devils Advocate vs the Experts

    The real difference I have found in the 3-way/vs/wrap is the 3-way gives the fly a different action. You can actually "bounce the bobber" in place.

    It's easy to see rather than explain though.,,,

    Redneckshadrap
    www.thecreekbank.com
    redneckshadrap@insightbb.com



  12. #12
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    RE: Devils Advocate vs the Experts

    I tried the three way swivel this weekend it really does change the action. The fluro leader disappears in the water.

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