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  1. #1
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    FNF Bobber Modification

    Since the FNF has become so popular thought I would share the steps necessary in making your own Special Bobbers. It will save you about $2 per bobber or so. The idea is to remove the weight that is located on the bottom and insert it into the middle of the bobber. This way the bobber will lay on its side when it hits the water and will stay on its side until the jigs hangs straight below the bobber in which the bobber will stand up normal. If you make a cast and the bobber never stands up then you are too shallow or your jig is sitting on a piece of grass or a fish has inhaled it on the way down. One thing is for sure if you are in deep enough water and you know there is no grass around and the bobber goes from straight up and dow to laying on its side, SET THE HOOK. The fish has hit the jig and instead of going down, it has risen in the water column which in turns gives slack to the bobber so it will lay on it's side again. If you have on a bottom weighted bobber, you will never know when you are too shallow or a fish has hit for the bobber stays straight up and down no matter what is happening under water. I have so much more confident using the FNF bobbers for they tell me a HUGE amount of information that the normal bottom weighted bobber gives you. Ignore the part descriptions so here goes:

    Buy the 1" Styrofoam two toned weighted bobber.

    Take a pair of needlenose pliars and bend out one end of the "Hook". This will allow you to remove the center shaft that originally had 2 hooks on both ends that you normally wrapped the line around.

    Remove the Plunger and spring from the top half and take the same needlenose and remove the top and bottom plastic inserts along with the weight on the bottom.

    Take a ink pen and mark a small mark across the "Equator" of the bobber across the red and white. This is the match up line when you glue it back together at the end.

    I use a razor sharp craft knife to cut the bobber in half along the same "Equator" between the red and white.

    Take the same razor knife and remove some of the foam material in the center of the bobber off both sides that you just cut in half. I found that if you put back in the top plastic piece you removed (this will be the hollow one that the spring sits inside) and remove only enough that when you put the weight over the plastic shaft on the inside and the weight sits flush with the end of it or a little bit hangs over the end is the perfect amount. If you go too deep into the top (Red) side then the bobber will not sit sideways in the water it will actually sit more Red Side down and when the jig does hang freely below the bobber it will never make it back to the perpendicular position. You could also take a soldering iron and remove the tip and replace with a roofing nail and burn the inside out just as easy as cutting.

    Now that both centers is removed, leave the top shaft in the bobber and put the weight over the shaft (If you don't put the top shaft in and only put the weight in and glue it together many times the weight will not end up perfectly in the middle and the top shaft will not go into the bobber thru the weight). Put the bottom half together with the top half and line up the ink pen mark to see if both halfs touch all the way around. If so then time to glue.

    I use Silicone Adhesive glue and put a small bead all the way around the weight then press the two side together lining up the ink pen mark. I take a small spring clamp and clamp the two side together and let them sit for several hours to dry, overnight is better.

    After dried, take the bottom plastic part and push into the opening at the bottom. You will see that it will not go all the way in now that the weight is not on the outside. Take a pair of wire cutters and cut off part of this plastic insert. Take enough off that it will fit inside the bobber flush. When you cut the tip off make sure to use your needlenose to open up the cut end so their is an opening all the way thru.

    Now insert the bottom shaft. Insert the straight part of the Hook up thru the bottom (White Side) so it comes out the top. This will put the curved part that you did not bend on the bottom which is also the same end that will be connected to your line or swivel.

    Take the spring and put it over the hook, and move it down into the top plastic part just like it came out in the first place. Take the plunger and put it over the hook and move it down inside the plastic insert compressing the spring slightly.

    Here comes the tricky part, you have to re-bend the hook to form another top of a candy cane to go into the one of the holes in the plunger. First you will have to cut off part of the hook since it is not needed to be as long as original since you moved the weight to the insde not on the outside the hook shaft needs to be smaller. I found that you can still see the original bend slightly in the hook. I cut it off right below that bend. Take a pair of needlenose and bend the hook to the same type bend as the one on the bottom and it should fit into the plunger. The amount of the bend will also determine how much the spring is depressed which will give you more or less room to attach your line on the bottom. You will have to just work with it to find out the correct length.

    Take a permanent red marker and fill in the top half of the bobber so the entire top half is red. I even color the plastic parts just for some more color contrast.

    You can test them in your kitchen sink. Fill it up with water and throw them in. They should float on their sides perfectly. If the weight is too far towards the top (Red Side) the bobber will sit more red side down in the water, weight too far towards the bottom (white side) the bobber sits more white side down. Ideally the bobber will sit dead sideways.

    That is it. It took me several attempts before figuring out the right setup. I actually stepped on one of those name brand bobbers in my boat, picked it up and saw how it was assembled on the inside. I probably wasted about 10 or so before figuring it out. Here is my steps to make them and they work just like the packaged brand that is over $4 for 2 bobbers. Hope this helps somebody save a little money. Hope I did not confuse you even more.

    Tight Lines



  2. #2
    SSKY Guest

    RE: FNF Bobber Modification

    Why not just use the styrafoam float(round) with the stem without a weight and connect on the back side of the the stem that sticks up?

  3. #3
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    RE: FNF Bobber Modification

    Tight Lines I greatly appreciate you taking the time to post the FNF bobber recipe.I will go get me some and let you know how the first sink full turns out. thank you again

  4. #4
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    RE: FNF Bobber Modification

    You must have the weight in the middle for it to work properly. No weight and the bobber will automatically turn up towards the slightest change in weight. A wave or the slightest tension on the line will turn the bobber up straight. The purpose of the weight in the middle is to keep the bobber sideways until the added weight of the jig which is only 1/16 or 1/32 of an ounce will turn the bobber up proper. The weight properly centered in the bobber is the key.

    Tight Lines

  5. #5
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    RE: FNF Bobber Modification

    [font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON Feb-21-06 AT 07:33AM (EST)[/font][p]"You must have the weight in the middle for it to work properly"

    For swivel users not necessarily......I've made close to 200 this yr(not counting the ones for myself). One thing I did learn(and we test these in a fish tank) is that the swivel weight has to be accounted for. With a swivel and a 1/16oz jig the best performance we've had is move the weight further up into the top portion(halve) of the bobber. A 1/32 oz jig bobber + swivel can stand the weight a little more toward the center.
    Since a lot of folks(mostly) use the swivel this is neccessary for a good indication of a "bobber-layover bite"
    An easier way to remove the foam for the sinker is find a drill bit a little bit smaller than the weight and drill out the foam"by hand". This way you can "snug" the weight tighly up in the hole(well, you know)

    I've yet to glue them together also. Once you've reinstalled the wire you're done. We've let one set in the fish tank at the back shop for 6wks+ and haven't seen any wear, rust, or lost bouyancy. I also paint the bottom black. This way you can see a layover bite a long way off. And in bluebird sky days that distance will be needed....

    There's a lot of ways to make these things. As you guys start making your own you'll come up with your own version also...

    If any of you folks have bought some bobbers in Lexington or Somerset and they have 4-5dots on the top they've came through my hands...

    Have fun...

    Billy


    Redneckshadrap
    www.thecreekbank.com
    redneckshadrap@insightbb.com



  6. #6
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    RE: FNF Bobber Modification

    I stand corrected. Since I don't use the 3-way swivel rig the way I wrote it up is for if you wrap the bobber directly to your line like I do. I will have to remember this if I ever go to the 3-way rig and adjust my weight accordingly. Thanks for the tip. Just curious Redneck, do you work at Backwaters in Lexington?

    Tight Lines

  7. #7
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    RE: FNF Bobber Modification

    No, I'm not on the payroll. But I like helping folks when I can. I'm there about everyday after 5pm and on Sat for a couple of hours(when I'm not fishing) tying jigs, making bobbers,,,ect... I live less than a mile from there.

    Billy


    Redneckshadrap
    www.thecreekbank.com
    redneckshadrap@insightbb.com



  8. #8
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    RE: FNF Bobber Modification

    Elnuts- You nailed the procedure for the bobbers. Kudos. Question for you, have you tried hot glue instead of the silicon? For what it's worth, it's what I use if I glue them. No down time for drying, and any excess can be wiped/rolled off after a few seconds.

    UpaCrick

  9. #9
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    RE: FNF Bobber Modification

    Yes, that is about the best step-by-step I've read yet. Sorry, Elnut I didn't mention that earlier. I've actually got some good pictures to go with that...

    Redneckshadrap
    www.thecreekbank.com
    redneckshadrap@insightbb.com



  10. #10
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    Crick and Red...

    Appreciate the compliments. I learned a lot the hard way as I started fishing in 2003. Wish somebody had told me some of these same things that would have helped me along faster. Just hoping somebody will start making their own and save a few greenbacks and maybe catch a fish or two more by using these bobbers. I will not FNF without them even if I had to pay the $4 for a pair, one 6lb fish is more than worth it. I have found that there are 3 types of bites on the FNF.

    Bite #1 is when the bobber goes under at Mach 10 speed. This is usually a small fish up to 3 lbs. These fish will travel around in packs and when one sees the jig the others do to so you will have a bullrush to the fly. Whichever fish gets there first will grab it and head deep to keep the others from taking it out of it's mouth. This is also why I have had guys in the boat with me manning the net in hopes of netting my fish and their bobber goes under or they pick up their reel after netting my fish and there is one on the line. Tip to those that fish with partners is when one of you hooks one the other should cast right in the same vacinity and you may get a double.

    Bite #2 is when the bobber slowly goes under so slow that it is an obtacle illusion for the water is so clear it looks for a second that it is still on top but is going under real slow. This is usually a 3-6 lb fish that usually travel as loaners but will sometime have a small fish traveling along with her.

    Bite #3 is when the bobber is standing up as normal and you are working it out in water that you absolutely know is deep enough for the leader and no grass to catch the jig. The bobber goes from standing up to laying on its side. Reel down and set the hook hard as you continue to reel taking up as much slack as possible. BIG FISH (Oh Oh Giant Giant Oh Oh Giant Never Give Up Never Give Up for all those Ike fans) These are usually 6 pounders and above that travel by themselves with no competition for the jig. They will swim up behind the jig, ##### it in and maybe rise up the water colum. There is no need to hit it hard and swim deep for they are big, cold, slow metabolism. Swim up eat and sit still to enjoy the meal.

    Without the FNF bobber you will NEVER know Bite #3 has happened for the bottom weighted bobber will always stand up straight. I have caught a 6-4 and 6-6 in December and would not have know the 6-4 was on the hook without the bobber.

    Hope this helps those learning the FNF.

    Tight Lines

  11. #11
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    RE: Crick and Red...

    Bite#3 also is in line with Mr Spot....LOL!!!!


    Redneckshadrap
    www.thecreekbank.com
    redneckshadrap@insightbb.com



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