Check Engine Light and Warning sound at WOT

[CTFSHWHISKER]

Ok, so here is what happened. Picked the boat up filled the oil injection tank but was not sure how much gas was in the tank, so I stopped on the way to the lake and got gas. I prepayed for $20 just to make sure there was enough for the little bit of running I was going to do. The boat, as it turns out, was almost full and I ended up completely topping it off.

Launched the boat and it took a few tries to get it started (not all that uncommon). Once it fired, it ran great idle out of the Marina. It is about a 3min idle out of the "no wake". When we got it out of the no wake, I put the boat up on plane and as soon as the RPMs settled out there was a constant tone, not a broken beeping. I looked at the warning light panel near the ignition and the light by "Check Engine" was illuminated. I then took it back off of plane and the tone stopped and the light went away. At this point, I thought it may have been a fluke so I put it back up on plane. Same thing.

There are 4 lights on the warning panel 1)No Oil 2)Engine Temp 3)Check Engine 4)Low Oil. It was the Check Engine the was lit

The water pump was working fine

The engine has a carb, so I doubt it has a computer.

correct,there is no computer,see #2 in my other reply,you need to use a remote fuel tank,if it runs fine and does not sound an alarm,the anti siphon valve is defective,if you still get an alarm then the problem is on the motor.what happens is the a.s valve is sucking shut.you will need to access the tank,what kind of boat is it?check engine light is a fuel restriction alarm,the over heat alarm system is seperate and will illuminate the over heat light only.

[Downwind]

Found this on another site but may help ya out. Mine is a Merc but had a float switch in the oil reserve tank get saturated and caused the alarm to sound. Good Luck.
There are a couple of situations dealing with the oil system that will give a continuous alarm. If the oil warning module (small black box below starter on right side of engine with 5 wires coming out of it) is bad it will give a continuous alarm or if the oil level float switch inside the oil tank is stuck or bad it will give a continuous alarm. Also the temp sending unit wire (located on the back of engine by the sparkplugs) goes to the oil warning module. If the temp sending unit is bad or the wire (tan w/lt. blue ) is shorted to ground somewhere it will give a continuous alarm. You can remove the tan/light blue wire coming from temp sending unit to the oil warning module, if the alarm stops it's probably a bad temp sending unit if it continues unplug the light blue wires going to the oil sending switch in the oil tank, if the alarm stops you have found the problem. If after unpluging the temp sending unit and the oil sending switch and the alarm still continues it is probably a bad oil warning module.

[CTFSHWHISKER]

Found this on another site but may help ya out. Mine is a Merc but had a float switch in the oil reserve tank get saturated and caused the alarm to sound. Good Luck.
There are a couple of situations dealing with the oil system that will give a continuous alarm. If the oil warning module (small black box below starter on right side of engine with 5 wires coming out of it) is bad it will give a continuous alarm or if the oil level float switch inside the oil tank is stuck or bad it will give a continuous alarm. Also the temp sending unit wire (located on the back of engine by the sparkplugs) goes to the oil warning module. If the temp sending unit is bad or the wire (tan w/lt. blue ) is shorted to ground somewhere it will give a continuous alarm. You can remove the tan/light blue wire coming from temp sending unit to the oil warning module, if the alarm stops it's probably a bad temp sending unit if it continues unplug the light blue wires going to the oil sending switch in the oil tank, if the alarm stops you have found the problem. If after unpluging the temp sending unit and the oil sending switch and the alarm still continues it is probably a bad oil warning module.

on the system check the check engine light is for fuel restriction,nothing to do with oil,or heat,they light up independantly,first place to start is with a remote tank and run it,to eliminate the anti siphon valve on the fuel tank,THEN move to the motor if it still alrams,the system is activated by a vacuum switch,little round white piece with 2 wires going to it.should be by the fuel\oil pump.it could be bad.make sure primer bulb is good too,if they fall apart inside it can cause this alram too,suucks up the pieces and blocks flow.

[know1]

I appreciate all of the replies and help.

Looks like I'll start with an alternate tank and see about the anti-syphon valve. In addition, I'm going to replace the fuel filter while we're in there.

[Basswipe]

I had the same problem on a MERC. Turns out it was the oil injection system getting weak. It would supply proper oil at lower RPMs, but couldn't keep up at high RPM.

Had a friend with a Stratos and OMC motor that was doing the same thing as yours, and he basically ignored it because it had plenty of oil in it. He cut the wire to the warning beeper. It blew up at WOT, and I mean blew up. It looked like a hand grenade went off under the cowling.

[The Legend]

I have a 1998 Ficht 150 (fuel injected) and the check engine and a steady beep comes on almost every time I start it. If not when I first start the engine, then soon after, regardless of if I'm still at idle or anywhere on the throttle. I've heard several complaints about this and the most common consensus among people (including mechanics) is that the water sensor causes the problem, even though there may be no water in the gas. I've even taken it to a dealer and had them do the computer code check and it kept showing moisture. I paid (more than I should have) to have them do everything to the engine to try to eliminate the problem. The shop replaced fuel filter, sensors, tried unhooking the sensor, but NOTHING would fix the beep and check engine light problem. Finally they told me they knew nothing else to try, except the ol' piece of tape trick to cover the light and to unhook the alarm :^)

[smee]

I appreciate all of the replies and help.

Looks like I'll start with an alternate tank and see about the anti-syphon valve. In addition, I'm going to replace the fuel filter while we're in there.

B - Break
O - Out
A - Another
T - Thousand $

[know1]

B - Break
O - Out
A - Another
T - Thousand $

Thanks for your help

[know1]

Thanks for all the replies.

Replaced the fuel filter and the fuel lines and it's running like a champ now.