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I agree but would just add that the way you tell if it's "too fast" is that you let it hit the water without thumbing the spool to stop it. If you get even the slightest overspin/backlash, it's too fast. You want it to produce no "overrun" when it hits the water
This is the key. There is a setting on the side of the reel (knob) that adjusts the tension of the reel when it's in free spool.
With the bait you are going to use to fish with on the line put your rod straight out and parallel with the water. Open the feel spool and watch the lure to see how fast or slow it falls. Adjust the tension on the knob so that the lure just barley falls downwards. If it goes down too fast tighter up the knob and if the lure falls too slow loosen up the knob tension.
Have the brake set correctly for the weight of the lure you are using and have the correct rod.
I had a baitcaster on an old med-heavy broom handle of a rod that I tried to use for bass fishing. Instead of casting with a nice flip of the wrist I had to sling it like a surf rod. Big pain in the rump. I was fortunate enough to have someone here set me up with a nice rod that fit what I was trying to accomplish much better. Now I can flip jigs and shoot texas rigs and what-not without creating a birds nest every cast or hanging crap in the boat just to cast.
Make sure you are set up for success from the outset. The rod and reel have to work together as a system.
Plus practice. Lots of practice.
The few guys I helped had to go to a heavier weight (1/4-3/8 oz) so they could feel the weight more. It let them know and understand the feeling of when to release the spool with their thumb. I would recommend side arm casting (short casts) until you get that "feeling" of knowing when to release the spool. Overhand casts are nice but might be to much for a beginner. A good rod, heavy weight and side arm casts are good places to start.
Got some practice in today with the new baitcaster on the Elkhorn in Georgetown. Didn't catch anything but I think I'm starting to get the hang of it. Unfortunately I got hung up on something and had to cut the line once. But I played with the braking occasionally on my Shimano Caenan and at the moment I have all brakes pushed out except for two, which are pushed in (not sure whether pushed in is "on" or "off"). I had a big gamakatsu hook with a 6" yamamoto senko on it, texas-rigged. This heavier lure setup was definitely easier to cast than the practice plug I had been using in the field near my house.
Pushed in is off. Pushed out is on.Got some practice in today with the new baitcaster on the Elkhorn in Georgetown. Didn't catch anything but I think I'm starting to get the hang of it. Unfortunately I got hung up on something and had to cut the line once. But I played with the braking occasionally on my Shimano Caenan and at the moment I have all brakes pushed out except for two, which are pushed in (not sure whether pushed in is "on" or "off"). I had a big gamakatsu hook with a 6" yamamoto senko on it, texas-rigged. This heavier lure setup was definitely easier to cast than the practice plug I had been using in the field near my house.
Another suggestion to consider is the line you are using. Start with something in the 10 to 12 pound range (mono). Heavier line is typically going to be alot stiffer and will create more issues coming off the spool. Braided line is normally quite flexible and casts pretty well but when you backlash braid it can be a real mess.
Good fishing!
Thanks for all the suggestions, I think I found out my problem. I didn't have the spool tension set correctly and also realized that my breaking system was not set right. Once I fixed these I was casting like a pro with barely any back lash. I love my baitcaster now and can see why people say once you get the hang of it, its all you will ever fish with.
Good Fishing everyone!
I fished Green River yesterday and although I didn't even get a bite I had fun trying out my baitcasters. Not one backlash in an hour or so of casting. I played with both adjustments...on left and right sides...dunno which one does what but everything you guys said was right!! It was actually hard to backlash even without my thumb on it. I couldn't believe it!!. Granted I was using a heavy lure though.
I think I'm still a little short on my casting though. I was making it to around the 30 yard mark. 40 is for experienced right?
mr catfish, if you are making ACCURATE 30 yd casts you can catch anything that swims in green river lake (if youre in a boat lol).
now that you are getting more comfortable making casts without backlashes start concentrating on the retrieve. different speed reels can be deceiving. tie a floating lure on (zara spook or whatever) , make your cast and start reeling as you would normally reel. watch how fast the zara spook comes across the water, now visualize how fast a sub-surface lure would be moving at that same retrieve.
if you were fishing a jig for example imagine that everytime you turn the handle on a 7:1 ratio reel you are moving the lure 24-28 inches roughly. now if you pitched that same jig to a stump ad turned the reel handle only 5 times you are now over 10 feet away from the stump
learning to visualize what the lure is doing under the water with different reels will help a bunch.
good luck
they were very accurate casts...surprisingly so. Your idea sounds great but with one BIG flaw for me. I actually looked at those top water baits and chose not to try them. I don't think I would have much luck with distance or backlash with the lighter lures. I may be wrong but I had a bad feeling when I thought about using them. I think I was throwing like 1/2 ounce rattle traps....had some heft on them.mr catfish, if you are making ACCURATE 30 yd casts you can catch anything that swims in green river lake (if youre in a boat lol).
now that you are getting more comfortable making casts without backlashes start concentrating on the retrieve. different speed reels can be deceiving. tie a floating lure on (zara spook or whatever) , make your cast and start reeling as you would normally reel. watch how fast the zara spook comes across the water, now visualize how fast a sub-surface lure would be moving at that same retrieve.
if you were fishing a jig for example imagine that everytime you turn the handle on a 7:1 ratio reel you are moving the lure 24-28 inches roughly. now if you pitched that same jig to a stump ad turned the reel handle only 5 times you are now over 10 feet away from the stump
learning to visualize what the lure is doing under the water with different reels will help a bunch.
good luck
if you are throwing a 1/2 oz bait you wont have ay trouble throwing a zara spook.