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Try using the Mustad 32786 BLN Jig Hook with a stainless screw lock and you wont have to use one of the wide gap hooks. This is due to the built in fulcrum or cam action of this model hook during the hookset.
With a conventional style of worm hook the width of the gap lies between the shank of the hook and the barb of the hook but with the 32786 Hook the width of the gap lies between the eye of the hook and the barb of the hook. Therefore with the 32786 Hook you have a much wider gap with a shorter shanked hook which allows for a body of the bait to flex closer towards the head as opposed to a longer shank hook which allows the bait to flex farther down towards the middle of the body.
Also you are not prone to hooking a fish as close to the gills with the 32786 Hook as with a longer shank fish hook.
That's a good looking hook. I might try it. Just wondering if it rips a bigger hole in the mouth of the bass when your taking the hook out? Possibly harder to remove if caught deeper in the mouth....I don't mean gut hooked just deeper then in the lip. Just curious.I have used Gamakatsu's for years and for some unknown reason I picked up a pack of VMC fastgrips and I have never looked back. I rarely loose a fish once they button up with these hooks:
http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/VMC_F...e-VMCWGHK.html
Gammy's all around for me...anything from a 2/0 Skip Gap on my small Cabin Creek tubes Texas Rigged, to a 5/0 EWG on my Horny Toads, Yum Dingers, Lizards, Worms, and Super Flukes.
I'm a PowerPro user, so I don't deploy an eye-crossing hookset. I give'er a quick tug and get the pressure on the fish. I also tend to use more medium action sticks than medium-heavy sticks.
The biggest barb of the three is the same size as any other hook, so I haven't seen any bigger holes. They are sticky and grab good so a little extra effort (not much) pops them right out. My thoughts on them was the times you don't get the hook completely penetrated then the little kicker barbs help hold on.