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Long story short had a blowout in 75 last Dec and thought I had a bearing go bad that caused it. Replaced the bearings and all and the wheel still sticks so it must be the drum brake sticking. Anyone had brake problems with your trailers and how did you resolve it. Im not the best at fixing things so I cant quite put my finger on it. You can turn the wheel when jacked up but it is hard to turn like the brake is stuck.
Shawn
You did say drums so assuming the new wheel bearing was torqued correctly, I would look at the brake cylinder as the culprit, Mr Shawn. Obviously it could be a faulty bearing, a bearing that isn't seated properly, a hub that's too tight or too loose but if you (or whoever replaced bearing) made certain at installation the new bearing/hub/wheel spun correctly before removing the jack, I'd be looking at the brake cylinder as the culprit.
After the fact...I carry a handheld laser temperature thermometer that can be found many places & shoot my hubs and tires from time to time after running to keep watch on something going amiss or one running excessively warmer than the other/s. That thermometer is useful for many things, BTW.
?[QUOTE=sglass;536404]Long story short had a blowout in 75 last Dec and thought I had a bearing go bad that caused it. Replaced the bearings and all and the wheel still sticks so it must be the drum brake sticking. Anyone had brake problems with your trailers and how did you resolve it. Im not the best at fixing things so I cant quite put my finger on it. You can turn the wheel when jacked up but it is hard to turn like the brake is stuck.
Shawn[/QUOTE]
did you check to see if the brake accuator was fully releasing ? check the other wheel to see if its free
[QUOTE=KiK;536405]You did say drums so assuming the new wheel bearing was torqued correctly, I would look at the brake cylinder as the culprit, Mr Shawn. Obviously it could be a faulty bearing, a bearing that isn't seated properly, a hub that's too tight or too loose but if you (or whoever replaced bearing) made certain at installation the new bearing/hub/wheel spun correctly before removing the jack, I'd be looking at the brake cylinder as the culprit.
After the fact...I carry a handheld laser temperature thermometer that can be found many places & shoot my hubs and tires from time to time after running to keep watch on something going amiss or one running excessively warmer than the other/s. That thermometer is useful for many things, BTW.[/QUOTE]
I never thought about the laser thermometer......that is a COOL idea. Less than 30 bucks for one at Home Depot.
Later,
Geo
It is the drum on the left side. Checking the brake line now to see if it collapsed
took the brake apart and the cylinder was FULL of rust and was not letting the brake release. I ordered both right and left side drum assembly kits galvanized steel so no rust for $65. If I ordered the cylinder alone it was $20 so why not upgrade it all. The brake line was good so hope this will fix it.
Shawn