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Gentlemen,
I have a Pflueger Trion baitcaster, that used to cast a mile until recently the braking system is cutting my range in half.
When you press the spool button, the spool is totally free with no tension at all on it.
When you open it up and look at the brake, it appears to be in mint condition. I have tried moving the plastic tabs up and it does nothing.
If no one can knows of a fix, I might try removing the brake system totally.
topwater
You might try giving Tackle service in Mooresville a call. They work on all kinds of reels. Sometimes they will give you free advice.
Eric H.
I was thinking about doing that, I thought they probably would tell me to bring it in.
I went on Pflueger's website and the brake systems shown on their "University" page don't look at all like mine. It is only 1 year old but apparently is not their current production design.
They have a contact number also.
The system looks so simple, I can't figure out why I can't figure it out. There ain't nothin to it.
topwater
Checkout this website.......It is for Shimano Curado and Bantam reels, but it should give you an idea of what is causing your "spool drag".
[url]http://www.ultimatebass.com/content/view/72/148/[/url]
Later,
Geo.
In your post you said that you moved the plastic tabs UP. Shouldn't that slow the reel down? If I'm thinking of the same tabs that you refer to I believe you should bring the plastic tab closer to the center of the reel to make it freer. The ones I'm thinking of are the ones that look kind of like little tophats. I believe they are part of the centrifical braking system........
I tried the tabs both up, and down. It doesn't matter.
The tabs don't stay up anyway, after you throw it, they are back down.
Here is what I do.....This is for Shimano Curado and Bantam reels (old style).
* Take the Brake side off.
* Look at all the CRUD in the reel where the spool touches the spool guides on the frame of the reel, and on the gold rim on the brake side. Clean all the CRUD out will ANYTHING......I use Denatured alcohol or brake cleaner.
* Next, check the bearings. There should be one on the brake plate. Clean this bearing.
* There may also be a bearing on the spool. If there is, clean it with alcohol or brake cleaner.
* If there are bushings where the bearings should be, check with the reel doctor, or online for bearings.......they will make a TON of difference, and probably just snap in....
These things will DRAMATICALLY change you casting. I can throw a fluke with a 3/0 hook for a country MILE with a finely tuned Curado....And you don't WANT to see what happens with a 1/2 or 3/8 oz rattle trap.
Later,
Geo,
The reel is already clean as a pin. There is a bearing on the spool shaft on the gear side, not the brake side.
I am going to give tackle service a call, just have been working a lot and only home after 5, haven't had a chance yet.
It is amazing the longest casting baitcaster I have is my first one bought in 1977, my beloved Ambassador 5000C.
thanks for the input,
topwater
I have several Bass Pro Shops reels (made by Pfluger) with the same braking system. I have found that over time the line actually imbeds itself in the line on the spool. I usually strip off 25 yards or so and spray reel magic on the remaining line and then reel the 25 yards back on the reel and spray again. This frees the reel up dramatically.
Thanks for the tip apex.
The spool is totally free spinning, so if the line was hanging on the spool I would be getting a severe back lash. I am not getting any backlash at all. Its definetely the brake kicking in.
I do have a Bass Pro baitcaster that has the same brake system, it casts a country mile. I wish I had bought a couple more when I was down there and they were marked 50% down.
I am going to see if I can just take the brake out of there, I don't need it and if I can take it out, that will work fine.
thanks again,
topwater
Have you checked into sending it back to the factory. I know that most major reel manufactures will service their products at little or no charge to the customer.