Secrets Learned

Through the years after listening to fishermen talk about techniques they have learned and used to catch bass, I have found everyone has their own techniques and ways of fishing that give them confidence to catch fish. You know, the guy who sits in the boat with you using the same rig as you and he is catching way to many fish for you to be comfortable. That was the way my father was before I got wise to what his secrets were. I am sure a lot of you, especially tournament fishermen, believe in your mind that you have a few things you have learned that will give you the advantage. Some of you even make your own lures, modify factory lures to your own liking, use a specfic hook, even down to a specific reel, line and knot. That's what makes crankbait fishing interesting because there are so many shapes and sizes, bill types, color schemes, and if one throws into the mix, retrieve speeds, retrieve techniques, water-weather-season lure choice, what type of rod and reel to use...all of these factors makes a fascinating topic.

To start, you must get the lure into the strike zone so good electronics and the right rod and reel are important to get the lure to the fish. The right rod and reel allows one to make long casts to get the lure down to the fish by allowing the downward arch of the lure to reach its peak before reaching the target. A 7-7.5 ft rod seems to be the length of choice with a 6.4:1 ratio reel loaded with 10 to 12 lb test. I am not going to get into the specifics of equipment right now because that is one of the variables in this discussion. Then there is "square-bill" crankbait vs. the "round-bill" vs the "tear-drop" vs. the "coffin-bill." The "square-bill" deflects better than the "round-bill" or "tear-drop. However, the tear-drop will carry farther in the wind. Smaller, thiner crankbaits with longer bills will dive deeper because they have less drag. "Square-billed cranks usually are used in shallow water (<6 ft) around wood structure. "Round-billed" cranks usually run deeper and do not hang up as badly. When a "square-billed" crank hits something, it "deflects" differently than the "round-bill. When the "round-bill" hits something it turns and goes around the object most of the time. Where as, the "square-bill" hops over the object. One may even make the "square-bill" crank hit the object twice (double-bounce) if the lure is slowed down before the object is hit which can be deadly. This technique can work well in hot and cold weather conditions. So now you are beginning to see where I am coming from. It is those little things that can make the difference.

Most of the time lure body shape is linked to the bill shape. A "flat, thin sided crank has a tighter wobble and is usually better in cold water conditions. The fater, wider crank has a widder wobble and works well in murky water because it emits more vibration. Don't forget the lipless crank in the fall on shallow flats becasue you can cover a lot water. As far as rattles go, some like no rattle in the lure in cold-clear water. Some like loud rattles when fish are active, and some like less sound when fish are less active. There are those who use suspending cranks when the water is cold with a slow retrieve, and when the bass are active in the early spring and late fall, they like to burn the suspending crank for reaction strikes when bass are feeding on surface shad.

One popular technique is to keep the crank in contact with the bottom. This technique can catch a lot of fish but two things to keep in mind. It is harder for the bass to hit the lure from under the lure and the action of the lure as it hits the bottom is not the intended action it was made. This phenomenon is called "breaking action." Breaking action on certain days however may just be the ticket the bass are interested. As you know, one day bass may want a steady retrieve, and next, a pause or sudden change in action. That's the challenge we all face, but slowing down and having the patience to change techniques is the key. Sometimes we must stop and bring back some of that knowledge you have learned and strored through the years.

Some other techniques used by the best bass fishermen are slowing down the crank only when the lure starts to hit an object. Some never stop the lure and some "slow-roll" the crank. There seems to be no advantage to a jointed crank unless the lure is fished in murky water to increase vibration. One good technique is to give the lure a slight jerk when the lure hits an object. Some like a crank with little buoyancy (slow-floater) with natural action. Some like the "Coffin-bill" which has a four-corner bill which has a little different action than the "square-bill", and it has a different deflection and runs a little deeper. And, some think a crank should not hit any thing usless it is sticking up. Again, you can see how many different ways to use a crankbait.

There are also two schools of thought on the type of rod to use with crankbaits. One group like the fiberglass because the rod does not "pull" the lure away from the fish because of its soft tip. Then there are the guys who like a stiff, heavy graphite rod used with mono because the mono will stretch not "pulling" the lure away from the fish, especially if you are fishing in less than 6 ft of water. As far as reel speed, some like the 5:1 slow retrieve reels and then there are others who use the 7.0:1 reels. Most fishermen use the 6.4:1 reels. Again, reel speed depends upon what technique you are using. Some of the best crank fishermen like to keep the rod tip 2-3 inches obove the water to one side and keep the line in contact with the lure at all times. Again, it is the "little" details that makes the difference most of the time.

I will end by adding some discussion of weather, water and seasonal conditions. In late winter and early spring when shad are still deep, cranks the colors of craw in brown, orange and red are good colors for reaction striks around rocky banks because the rocks warm up during sunny days. In summer, cranks with chartreuse with blue backs are excellent regardless of water color. In the fall, it all depends up water clarity. Firetiger is good in murky water and chrome with black backs in clear cold or hot water conditions.

Maybe you know some of the old timers who just know the secrets of bass fishing, and if you have the privilege to fish with them, you know they have spent a lot of seat-time learning those "little" things that make them so productive.

When you are fishing with chartruese hand grenades there arn't many secrets just get rid of it in a hurry and if the game warden pulls up to your boat pull the pin and hand it to him and ask him if he is going to fish or visit.

beep beep

All the equitmant in the world, wont make some guys experts!A hundred buck bait caster works as well as a 600 bucks one does.A 350 buck spinning reel,who are you trying to impress?You can only use one rod at time. so why do you take 6 with you? a question my wife asked me once. What in nature does a spinner reresent? another question she asked. Finally told her, she shouild take up golf, I HATE golf.

The biggest secret I found is this.Bass are not the only fish worth catching.Was stuck on nortern pike till they introducwed the coho salmon, and they topped that with the chinook.But untill you hook a fresh run steelhead trout, you aint fished.Hooked two tarpon never saw one up close.

I have to differ on taking 6 with you. Sometimes I have 10 or 12 rods in the boat. It would take a book to get into all of the nuances and detail but I have evolved my fishing to where I have specific rod/reel combos for certain techniques. So sometimes (well most of the time really) when I am going out and I am not honed into what the fish want and a specific technique or two I end up taking a bunch of rods with different lures so that I can try different things. I mean I have a rod that all I use it for is C-rigs. I have another rod that always has a jig tied on. Beyond that I have rods that I may use for several techniques but I may adapt the line. For instance I have a 6-6 MH Loomis spinning rod which in the late-fall / winter / early spring is my shad rap or small jerk bait rod rigged with 6 or 8 lb line. When the fish move up shallow I will spool 12 lb and use it for sluggo-type swimming worms or T-rig tubes. In the summer at night still using the 12 lb I will fish tube jigs. But those several techniques are about all that I do on that rod. I fish spinnerbaits on 3 different casting rods depending on which blade I am throwing. I fish a small 1/4 oz blade on a 6' M casting rod. I fish my night drop blades on a 6'6" MH rod and for honkin' tandem blades or "ledge" blades I have a heavy action casting rod reserved. And I may have all three of those different blades tied on and in the boat at once. So my arsenal is highly tuned to the techniques I use which I have many and I am always looking out for new ones...

kc

I have a few favorites that I use for certain tactics also, plus several more for stripers, and a few more for trout, and i love ultra light for pan fish, so add a few more, and my shed looks like bass pro.I only have two musky rod combos, getting to old and sore to throw those 10 inch baits all day.Down to two down riggers rods, and may get erid of all that stuff next year.

[QUOTE=kygorski;380183]I have a few favorites that I use for certain tactics also, plus several more for stripers, and a few more for trout, and i love ultra light for pan fish, so add a few more, and my shed looks like bass pro.I only have two musky rod combos, getting to old and sore to throw those 10 inch baits all day.Down to two down riggers rods, and may get erid of all that stuff next year.[/QUOTE]


Send me a PM if you are seriously looking to get rid of your Ski baits at any point.

Sorry spoken for, got a brother in law who is a sky fishermen[musky].