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Hey guys,
[I]I have always valued the opinion of the contributors on Fishin.Com.[/I] I have a '98 Triton TR-20 very Low hours that I would like to put a [I][B]selling price[/B][/I] for the market.
[I][B]My question is: [/B][/I]Where would a person go online for [I]reliable pricing guide? [B]Oldlures [/B][/I]:confused:
Go look at the nada book value for boats online. I looked up my 02 tr20 with a 225 this week and it was around 15000
[QUOTE=Fishin is life;500706]Go look at the nada book value for boats online. I looked up my 02 tr20 with a 225 this week and it was around 15000[/QUOTE]
I've been trying the same thing. I have a 06 tracker pt190 with a 90opti.
NADA says it is worth 7-11k with a high value of 15. I don't see how.......but hey maybe.
I'm not selling yet, but want to get an idea and start looking before I start depreciating too much.
Later,
Geo
[QUOTE=Oldlures;500705]Hey guys,
[I]I have always valued the opinion of the contributors on Fishin.Com.[/I] I have a '98 Triton TR-20 very Low hours that I would like to put a [I][B]selling price[/B][/I] for the market.
[I][B]My question is: [/B][/I]Where would a person go online for [I]reliable pricing guide? [B]Oldlures [/B][/I]:confused:[/QUOTE]
It also has a lot to do with the outboard you have on the back of the boat as well. A more reliable motor in the consumers eye will bring a little more value.
Here's how I did it when I sold my 16 year old pontoon boat:
1. Make a list of ALL the equipment I was going to sell including boat, motor, trailer, trolling motor, stereo, compass, fishfinder, portable livewell, life jackets, ropes, anchors, what ever you want to go with the boat. List it all and do have that available when a buyer comes to look.
2. Beside each item you listed, place the brand new cost you paid. If you can't remember go on line and get a price for it. Total that all out. This price is your sunk cost. (less insurance maintenance, registration/taxes). For all items other than the B/M/T, set a price and add that into the boat.
3. For the boat motor and trailer, do get a Nada price. But also do this. Look up the same equipment as if it were one year newer, boat motor and trailer. Why? Cause the ones one year newer than yours may be as much as 9 months into the year of "newness". And your maybe in better condition that one that is a year newer.
4. Surf the web for a boat like yours and see if you find any similar and what they are on the market for. The values in the local area DO NOT hold any additional relevance because equipment condition is not a constant.
5. Clean up the boat to near perfection, before.....before you take pictures of it to post on the net or in an ad. A second good idea is to post a picture of the boat when its in use, or docked on a lake, or beached somewhere? Why? Because it starts developing a sense of ownership before the sale that supports the person looking/potential buyer to start taking mental ownership. He/she starts thinking what she/he would do with that boat IF they had it.
6. Decide how fast you want to sell, then set a price fully 15-20% higher than the lowest number you will accept for the whole rig. If in the first couple weeks you get lots of folks who want to come see it, then don't come off your price much, max 10%. If you get next to no results, and get more pressed to sell, then you can come off the list price and show a moderately exciting price reduction because you built that leverage in up front. And bear in mind, just because a person looks, doesn't get a big discount at first, and walks away, doesn't mean he won't come back after he has look and seen more than cost more.
7. Never say no to an offer, always counteroffer. If I get low balled on a EX: $15,000 boat, my counter offer is maybe $200 bucks off ist. Next lowball response I get, the drop is only maybe $50 bucks. This progressions shows you are getting close to the bottom in the buyers mind. And remember, some lowball offers are only a demonstration that the potential buyer really isn't "ready, or willing, or financially able".
Safety: Only way I accept a check on a private sale, is if the buyer makes it out to cash, goes to the bank with me, cashes the check at the bank, and then hands me cash. Yes, the buyer got to write a check, but as it was made out to himself for cash, you won't get caught holding the "bouncer".
This is the approach I took when I listed my boat on fishin.com and Craigslist on a Sunday night, and had the boat sold at 10% off list within 6 days. Agreed, apples and oranges because I was selling a 50% depreciated asset that was well below the price of new or rather new ones.
Best wishes, and big bucks!
I tried the NADA on my boat, it didn't give me the option to list the motor size, or the different fishing electronics, number of batteries. I think I would just price mine myself, with a price I would be ok with selling it for. here is something I've done, that helps on making a sale. make a video of it, slowly walk around it while filming. point out any bad spots on it, show the trailer tires, show big engine with cover off, take it to the lake and film it as you launch it, and as you start it, film it from drivers seat while taking off and going down the lake, film all your electronics working. drop trolling motor in water and show it working. I've done this on a few pickups in the past, and they sold real quick. and the buyer told me the video made the difference. hope this helps.
Motors and trailers are a separate category and must be priced separately and if if you use FF like I do the links disappear. I have to assume that if you use any compliant browser they do since I know FF is compliant. I guess they designed the site for IE users.