Johnson Boat Mechanic

[QUOTE=olgreenboat;547138]Are you fairly mechanically inclined and patient ? You can do most of this your self.
If this motor has a VRO on it the [SIZE=2]continuous warning sound at wide open throttle means no oil . but I really need to know what year it is. [/SIZE]If this is a vro system it should have a oil tank for 2 stroke oil and you could have a problem with it as well .
Another thing to check is if the water pump is keeping up at high speed is there plenty of water coming out of the weep tube or pee tube if not your not getting enough water to cool the motor and it is running hot .. Now it could be as simple as the fuel lines and is the first place i would start if you are using any thing fuel related from walmart immediately throw it away and stop using it and look into a 100% fuel line and filter change ..
Kentucky is a dumping ground for bad fuel and this includes mixing it with ether or heptane methanol and ethanol this stuff is hell on fuel lines and aluminum . If you do buy a manual DO NOT get a seloc manuals there junk get a full blown dealer manual that has all the info you need to fix your motor those seloc and clymber ( and some others ) manuals are basic fixes taken from the full blown dealer manual and they leave out too much detail .[/QUOTE]

It is a 95 Johnson Fast Strike 115 hp. It is VRO since it does have a oil reserve. It pumps hard and uses oil. The chart on the boat says continuous horn is overheat or fuel restriction. I replaced water pump, impeller, tank to motor fuel line and bulb with OMC.

Not sure where else to go and was looking for some help. Not the most mechanically inclined but am patient. Have to be to bass fish.

[QUOTE=olgreenboat;547199]Its not the outside of the hose it's the inside . Here is the problem with fuel lines if you want a fuel line that is resistant to alcohol you just use silicone but regular gasoline will eat it up were alcohol and ether will eat rubber so they have to find a happy middle here and that leaves us with fuel lines that will still fail over time so you still need to change them every so often .. Fuel pump diaphragms and fuel pump filters fall in here too as the plastic there made of is at beast just resistant and will make plastic very brittle this also falls in with the plastic gas tanks.. They want you to use USCG approved SAEJ1527 hose and it's illegal to use anything else .. All gas has ethanol in it but if think about it try to buy your fuel out side of town the farther away the better and stay away from the big stations like thortons kroger and such the little mom and pop stores will have better gas most of the time .
Now about plastic gas tanks the use of these tanks are like a lot of other things taking from NASCAR but nascar tanks has a bladder in them that does not rupture your car and boat tank doesn't I have seen more then one of these plastic tanks fail and all of them a hair line crack in the bottom on the corner of the tank they didn't leak a lot at one time but they were seeping fuel none the less . Now i know there is going to a lot of you thinking well I have had my tank for 10 years and not one drop of fuel yet . Not me that thing would of been replaced a long time ago .. What kind of tank do i have you ask Its metal Johnson that i rebuilt . Had one plastic tank second year it had a hair line crack ..
Well I can go on for ever about this stuff but in the end folks check your fuel lines man if there hard and or seem stiff or there really soft and mushy replace the dam things its cheep maintenance ..[/QUOTE]

I had a less than one year old 6 Gallon portable plastic tank develope a small leak in the weld in the middle of the bottom. It was a quality tank- Johnson Evinrude about 80 bucks now. . I could not figure where the gas was coming from. Almost fixed some other stuff but luckily I found the problem. Had another one develope a crack near the fitting on top. That was a cheaper tank. That problem made the boat run bad. I can't remember what it was doing though. Took it to the mechanic and he replaced the tank.

[QUOTE=peter;547239]I had a less than one year old 6 Gallon portable plastic tank develope a small leak in the weld in the middle of the bottom. It was a quality tank- Johnson Evinrude about 80 bucks now. . I could not figure where the gas was coming from. Almost fixed some other stuff but luckily I found the problem. Had another one develope a crack near the fitting on top. That was a cheaper tank. That problem made the boat run bad. I can't remember what it was doing though. Took it to the mechanic and he replaced the tank.[/QUOTE]

Thanks I will look closer at the tank and the tank hoses.

could be a thermostat or some corrosion around the thermostat opening not letting the water flow thruat wide open throttle

[QUOTE=adriancretired;547281]could be a thermostat or some corrosion around the thermostat opening not letting the water flow thruat wide open throttle[/QUOTE]

I think I had that replaced. I will look at that. Thanks for your response.

Been trying this and trying that. Nothing I have done seems to help. Guess that is why I was looking for a mechanic. Maybe someone who knew more than me.

We run the river below Cumberland dam and several times I have picked pebbles out of the water intake. Sometimes have to use a pair of hemostats to get them out. Also had them make all the way through to get stuck in the pee hole.you can tell when they get lodged, you still get flow but its reduced

use a portable tank with new hose. this eliminates the possibility of fuel restriction in boat hoses. a water pressure gauge would eliminate not knowing if you have adequate water flow. if it still sounds horn, i would pull the heads and check for blockage.

take your cylinder heads off and inspect the deflectors and check valves. There should be 4 deflectors and 1 check valve per side. Of course if you do that, there is a special sequence to torque the head bolts.

[QUOTE=restornator;547298]take your cylinder heads off and inspect the deflectors and check valves. There should be 4 deflectors and 1 check valve per side. Of course if you do that, there is a special sequence to torque the head bolts.[/QUOTE]

See this is where I feel over my head. I have read that there is a water bypass at full throttle that puts water to the power head. I am not confident getting that deep into the engine. Thus why I was willing to pay for someone who can do it right, a good mechanic.

[QUOTE=dragmerc;547287]use a portable tank with new hose. this eliminates the possibility of fuel restriction in boat hoses. a water pressure gauge would eliminate not knowing if you have adequate water flow. if it still sounds horn, i would pull the heads and check for blockage.[/QUOTE]

Good idea, I will try that.

PULL THE HEADS !
Wear not there yet . Don't take the heads off man this is a process of elimination and were not done yet .
The 2 things Im thinking it is is the VRO or power packs . Why not running hot ? Well shutting your engine off and right back on will not cool it enough to make it stop over heating in fact if it was hot and you turn it off it will in fact get 5 to 10 Deg. hotter its called carry over .
The VRO , If at high RPMs the VRO starves for oil it will set off the long tone this could also be the float bulb in the oil tank the oil float bulb could be heavy and sinking to the bottom of the tank this will set off the alarm . These floats go belly up quite often and there high for what they are . There is also a filter screen in the bottom of the oil tank if it is clogged up it will starve for oil.. There is a sensor in the VRO it's self and it will cause this to happen . The first thing i would change is the screen in the oil tank and the fuel filter under the hood . I take it they have never been changed in the 20 years of the motors life.

[QUOTE=olgreenboat;547336]PULL THE HEADS !
Wear not there yet . Don't take the heads off man this is a process of elimination and were not done yet .
The 2 things Im thinking it is is the VRO or power packs . Why not running hot ? Well shutting your engine off and right back on will not cool it enough to make it stop over heating in fact if it was hot and you turn it off it will in fact get 5 to 10 Deg. hotter its called carry over .
The VRO , If at high RPMs the VRO starves for oil it will set off the long tone this could also be the float bulb in the oil tank the oil float bulb could be heavy and sinking to the bottom of the tank this will set off the alarm . These floats go belly up quite often and there high for what they are . There is also a filter screen in the bottom of the oil tank if it is clogged up it will starve for oil.. There is a sensor in the VRO it's self and it will cause this to happen . The first thing i would change is the screen in the oil tank and the fuel filter under the hood . I take it they have never been changed in the 20 years of the motors life.[/QUOTE]

No they have not been changed. I will order them today! Thanks for the suggestion.

I was thinking the same thing with the over heating. It should not cool off enough to start right up and run WOT.