casting distance

[QUOTE=artcarney_agr;459202]I got it in maybe '03 or '04

First thing that came off was the emblem on the side...no biggie there since it was cosmetic. Next, something about the gears inside started slipping and would allow the spool and handle to spin backwards/free spin, it got worse and worse as time went on. I guess you would say that the anti-reverse went out on it. Probably could be fixed, but I just took it off and shelved it. It gave me 5 good years of deep crankin' - I guess all the pressure and strain on it just wore it out.[/QUOTE]
what i do is this... i set my cranks up like a carolina rig... use a half ounce worm weight.. does pretty good... still has good action.. not quite like no weight though... and i can get good distance with it also...

[QUOTE=billyp;459075]Hey guys. Trying to get into deep cranking and know that I have to make very long casts.. I hear alotta people say they can cast a country mile. Not knowing what that is, I took a tape measure and marked off distances and started seeing what I could hit. I was hitting 50-60 yards with a SK series 6. Now a couple weeks later and I can barely hit 45.
Also at 40 yards with 6xd on 10lb line I never hit bottom. On the bright side I don't lose any baits..
Was just wondering if any of you had actually marked distances and saw how far you were casting. Also what set up are you using. Rod, reel, line etc. Any input wiould be appreciated.

Billy[/QUOTE]

60 yards is a LONG way, 45 yards is a LONG way to cast. 50 yards is half the length of a football field and a pro basketball court is 94 feet (30 yards). I never measured my cast with tape measures and use G Loomis / Curado combinations but don't think I have EVER casted 60 yards. I don't think I could put 8lb test, downwind with the biggest crankbait possible to not backlash and cast 60 yards. I use 10lb Flourocarbon and keep my reels cleaned regularly including all bearings internally and such to maximize my distance on cast and depth on crankbaits. I will also take a cigarette lighter and heat up the bill of a crankbait and turn the outer tips of it up slightly to get more distance. This works the best on Luhr Jensen crankbaits with their cloverleaf bill designs, I will heat up and bend up slightly the 2 outer "leafs". There are 2 different types of Luhr Jensen crankbaits, the normal and the trolling series. The trolling series will run a little deeper than the normal. There is a specific hump at Dale Hollow that is just a tad bit too deep for me to bump no matter what I do so I will move up on the hump and make a long cast then troll to the other side letting out line as to have probably 75 yards of line out then start kneeling and reeling to make sure I drag and bump it all the way across. This has helped put fish in the boat when I am night fishing on more than one occasion. It takes a long time to get set up on each cast but when fish are coming in the boat it is well worth it. I have also taken a Carolina rig with a 1 1/2 oz tungsten sinker with a 3 1/2 foot leader and instead of a creature bait or worm will tie on a floating shallow running crankbait. As I drag this the crankbait will bounce off the bottom then float back up when I pause then bounce off bottom and float. This is what I do

Thanks guys! Alot of good info here. I have played around with super tuning reels before. I currently use Revo's/ loomis combos. The revo's are already too fast for me..
Elnut. Thanks for tips. I'd say you have hit 50 yards and not known it. It's really not that far. My brother( who also is on this forum) has marked off distances at his house for practicing. He also hits 50 plus consistently. Thanks again guys!
Billy

[QUOTE=GeoFisher;459189]Yea.........that is it.

I purchased a 10 pack for 50 bucks, I think.

These,. I think: [url]http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/kit726[/url]

Later,

Geo[/QUOTE]

how many reels can you do with the 10 pack ??

What would you guess suggest for a cheap combo for casting big cranks??

[QUOTE=NedFlanders;459353]how many reels can you do with the 10 pack ??[/QUOTE]

Depending on the reels 4 or 5.

The bearings that you CARE about and can replace on the old Curado Greens are the spool bearing and the tension control bearing............

Here is a schematic: The 194 bearing parts can be replaced with the bearings i Listed in the link:

[url]http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/shimano/Shimano_CU200B5.pdf[/url]

Checkout this link........this is good for most baitcasters....but CURADO 200's are used as an example:

[url]http://reeltalk.reelschematic.com/content.php?121-Shimano-Curado-CU200B-Maintenance[/url]

Here is another link to an index to most reels for schematics:

[url]http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/thumbnails.php?album=8[/url]

I can tell you hands down one of the best peices of advice I've gotten off this sight is to clean your bearings with lighterfluid!!!!!! I can not tell you how easy and perfect it is for the job.

And Geo I laughed because those are the exact links I used when I was researching "fine tuning" for my curado's....

[QUOTE=offdtop;459420]I can tell you hands down one of the best peices of advice I've gotten off this sight is to clean your bearings with lighterfluid!!!!!! I can not tell you how easy and perfect it is for the job.

And Geo I laughed because those are the exact links I used when I was researching "fine tuning" for my curado's....[/QUOTE]

Yea, a little maintenance goes a long way.

AND be SURE to re adjust your stuff BEFORE you tie on a 3/4 oz red eye shad and BLAST it out........Bird nest city.

It is amazing how much performance you will regain from cleaning your equipment.

I have one setup that I like that I used for fluke fishing and I can blast a Zoom Superfluke with it.....I mean BLAST......

Later,

Geo