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Hit my dad up. Len Wathen 502-314-9209.... He's in Bardstown, KY does excellent work several guys here on this board go to him. He also has really good prices and beats most of the dealers around the area. He's retired now and this is his full time gig. Hit him up
[QUOTE=restornator;547168]speaking of fuel line. Napa offers braided hose that protects the rubber from dry rotting in the sun.[/QUOTE]
This is exactly the problem my 6hp Johnson was having. Took it to place in out in Mt. Washington for service since I couldn't figure out what was wrong (woah pricey). After he went through it from top to bottom and had called me back in, he showed me the old fuel line and split it open longways with a blade. Man, the inside of the hose was just peeling apart and flushing through the system. I did not have a fuel filter in line (I do now). I'll never let that happen again, ever.
Aswald next time need to hit my pops up. He charges like $50 an hour which is way cheaper than most shops and he only charges when he's actually working on your boat
I took this from [URL]http://www.maxrules.com/fixomcvro.html[/URL]
VRO house routing [URL]http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/VROpics/VRO_hoses.gif[/URL]
1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating.
V6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is ALSO a steady constant beep.
2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)
3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).
[IMG]http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/general/warning.gif[/IMG] If the warning horn is the black plastic three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it
does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.
Need the model number of your motor . I would take the Thermostat out .
[QUOTE=Embrey;547171]Nothing wrong with a plastic tank[/QUOTE]
Sorry but I'm not a fan of plastic Gasoline tanks for anything. Yet I have one in my own boat. I have two older metal gas tanks but they have rust inside them and the rust clogged up the fuel filter some time ago. I went out to find a new gas tank and all I could find was plastic ones. I've got two of the plastic gas tanks now. One didn't have a fuel level gage on the tank so I stopped using that one when I bought a new one with the fuel gage built into it.
I guess one advantage of plastic is that it may not create sparks like a metal tank might.
As for the OP posts I'd also check the thermostat and make sure it's not stuck closed or open. I have a Johnson 35 HP older (1978) and had to have the water pump and the thermostat replaced a few times when it would not run right and the water was not coming out of the Pee hole in the back of the motor. The motor has to warm up to run properly and if the thermostat is stuck open it's harder to get the motor warmed up at first.
I also have to repair some of the electrical wires inside the motor housing as the insulation on the wires and dry rotted and was crumbing off the wires. I did that job myself and so far it's working good. I spliced in some new wires and replace some wires in total. The hardest part was getting the wires back into one of the connectors but I figured out how to do that. If you can solder and have some tools it's not that hard to fix the electrical wiring. I've replace the rectifier a few times over the years as they tend to go bad.
Bad gas can also be a problem. So use fresh gas or at least use some stabile in your gas tank. Clean the fuel filter and the engine should run better. I use some Sea Foam to keep the inside of the engine running clean.
[QUOTE=olgreenboat;547537]I took this from [URL]http://www.maxrules.com/fixomcvro.html[/URL]
VRO house routing [URL]http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/VROpics/VRO_hoses.gif[/URL]
1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating.
V6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is ALSO a steady constant beep.
2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)
3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).
[IMG]http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/general/warning.gif[/IMG] If the warning horn is the black plastic three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it
does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.[/QUOTE]
I get one long steady beep after running the engine WOT for about 5 -10 Mins. Mine sticker says it is either fuel restriction or over heating. It does beep on start. I am doing what I feel comfortable doing, after that I guess I will be making the call to someone else.
[QUOTE=CrankBaitKilla;547536]Aswald next time need to hit my pops up. He charges like $50 an hour which is way cheaper than most shops and he only charges when he's actually working on your boat[/QUOTE]
If I need service again at some point, I'll hit you up. I got raped by the guy in Mount Washington. He had the motor for like 2 weeks and charged way more than I thought was reasonable once the work was done. Live and learn, at least it runs great now. Thanks for the heads-up.