Baitcaster Casting Problems

[QUOTE=KYCatfish;484233]they were very accurate casts...surprisingly so. Your idea sounds great but with one BIG flaw for me. I actually looked at those top water baits and chose not to try them. I don't think I would have much luck with distance or backlash with the lighter lures. I may be wrong but I had a bad feeling when I thought about using them. I think I was throwing like 1/2 ounce rattle traps....had some heft on them.[/QUOTE]

That is what the brake is for. You adjust it for the weight of lure you are throwing. Back it off some for lighter lures.

[QUOTE=smashdn;484273]That is what the brake is for. You adjust it for the weight of lure you are throwing. Back it off some for lighter lures.[/QUOTE]
and which side is the brake...left or right? On left I think is the magnet....but that's a brake too. Like I said, I'm new to this.

You on KY Hunting too right?

[QUOTE=smashdn;484273]That is what the brake is for. You adjust it for the weight of lure you are throwing. Back it off some for lighter lures.[/QUOTE]


You need to loosen the spool tension for lighter lures and turn up the brakes a little more, otherwise the spool will spin faster than the line is going out. That is what causes a backlash. The heavier the lure, the less brakes need to be used, because the lure continues to pull line out after the initial throw. When you throw a lighter lure, it loses momentum faster than a heavier lure when sailing through the air.

[QUOTE=MagikSmallie;483651]Its all in the brakes guys. Adjust your centrifugal brakes as well as your tuning dial. Start with the brake and make sure all of your "pins" are pushed OUT. this is the maximum brake, make a few casts and then adjust by pushing the pins "IN" this will loosen the brake as you "turn off" some of the pins. Make sure when you adjust the brakes you always do them in pairs. whatever you do to one brake make sure you do the same to the one directly across from it as they do work together. But play around with this and I think you'll find you can tune in your baits and get it working right for you.[/QUOTE]

That is very helpful. I don't have that much trouble with the baitcaster; but I did wonder how adjusting the pins would affect the braking. I was wanted to tweak because I felt like I may not be getting the distance on my casting with some of the lighter lures I am using. I think understanding this will help me tweak this and possibly allow me to uses some lighter lures more effective. Thank you.

[QUOTE=Ranger492;483668]I agree but would just add that the way you tell if it's "too fast" is that you let it hit the water without thumbing the spool to stop it. If you get even the slightest overspin/backlash, it's too fast. You want it to produce no "overrun" when it hits the water[/QUOTE]

THis is an important tip. Another great tip when learning how to cast is to use a little bit heavier line. Try putting on 20lb line and cast a little heavier lures. The larger line will not backlash as easy. Also When you make a long cast take out about another 10-20 feet of line. then put a peice of tape on the reel. Then proceed to real up the line over the peice of tape. This will prevent any backlash from going beyond the peice of tape. This tip was givin to me when I was a young kid and it helped me wonders. A third tip is when you get a backlash (it will happen) you do not have to cut the lure and pull the line through. I spent the first 5 months doing this everytime I got a backlash. Instead you can pull the loops on the reel and it will come out.

I apologize if I have confused anyone. I think I may have been using brake and spool tension adjustment knob interchangeably. My reels only have one "dial" on the side to turn aside from the drag.

When you whip a lure out there, brakes 'dampen' the spool's rate of spin to help keep if from getting too far ahead of how fast the lure is pulling out string as it flies through the air. They help a lot, but do not prevent backlash. If you're a beginner, I recommend a reel with the brake adjustment on the outside of the cover. Then it's a simple matter to adjust the brakes with the twist of a dial.

Every baitcaster has a spool tension knob. Tighten it and the spool spins less freely, loosen it for the opposite. Set the tension by clicking the spool release with your bait hanging loose. Adjust the spool tension so the bait drops slowly. If you're a complete beginner very slowly.

Start with the brakes all the way on and the spool pretty tight. Set up like that, casts will be short and nose dive pretty hard. Slowly loosen things, and keep casting. Accuracy is just as important as distance, so no need to sling it hard at this point. Educating your thumb to stop the spool at the right time is vital, and takes a while. Practicing dry is okay, but practice by actually fishing for the sharpest learning curve.

When you think you're pretty good, and start to get cocky, cast a crankbait into a nice stiff wind a few times. After you pick the backlashes out, practice some more.

Remember you will always get a backlash now and then, everybody does.

best way to get backlash out tighten the drag put thump on spool apply pressure and crank the handle a few times to straighten the loops engage button for free spool pull out line until it stops repeat and keep doing this until backlash is out.

[QUOTE=Devils Horse;565996]When you whip a lure out there, brakes 'dampen' the spool's rate of spin to help keep if from getting too far ahead of how fast the lure is pulling out string as it flies through the air. They help a lot, but do not prevent backlash. If you're a beginner, I recommend a reel with the brake adjustment on the outside of the cover. Then it's a simple matter to adjust the brakes with the twist of a dial.

Every baitcaster has a spool tension knob. Tighten it and the spool spins less freely, loosen it for the opposite. Set the tension by clicking the spool release with your bait hanging loose. Adjust the spool tension so the bait drops slowly. If you're a complete beginner very slowly.

Start with the brakes all the way on and the spool pretty tight. Set up like that, casts will be short and nose dive pretty hard. Slowly loosen things, and keep casting. Accuracy is just as important as distance, so no need to sling it hard at this point. Educating your thumb to stop the spool at the right time is vital, and takes a while. Practicing dry is okay, but practice by actually fishing for the sharpest learning curve.

When you think you're pretty good, and start to get cocky, cast a crankbait into a nice stiff wind a few times. After you pick the backlashes out, practice some more.

Remember you will always get a backlash now and then, everybody does.[/QUOTE]

I like the Johnny Morris and Lews reels.........they have 3 "braking" controls.

1). Spool tension know. All casters have this.
2). Centrifugal brakes. Some have this, not all do.
3). Magnetic brake.........Some have this , not all do.

I set the tension to the conditions, and bait I'm using.
I set all my reels to 3 on 3 off on the centrifugal brakes......

Then I use the Magnetic brake to dial in the differences in condition changes. Wind, or as the reel "heats" up, or the line wets, or whatever.......the magnetic brake can take care of all that.

Later,

Geo

[QUOTE=GWScott;483614]Decided to get my first baitcaster and I understand it takes a lot of practice to cast effectively. I have tried to practice as much as i can and when I cast over head it seems like my lure wants to nose dive without any arc. I feel like i can get a decent arc with a cast from a spinning reel. What could be making my lure dive so fast, improper technique, line spooled incorrectly, etc?? Also, when i cast underhanded or side arm it wants to shoot left every time even when im aimed right. If any one has a possible fix to my problem i would appreciate the feedback.[/QUOTE]
Take your rod and reel to your local tackle shop I,m sure they will be glad to show you how to use and to adjust your reel so it will work right