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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    1,004
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    Quote Originally Posted by HURRICANEBOB View Post
    Upfront, want you to know I work at Bob Swope Ford in Etown, I'm a Product Specialist, and I'm on salary, not commission. And yes, as a Product Specialist, I perform the function of sales in that I help folks find and select the vehicle that meets their needs and budgets, and explain vehicle features and benefits. I don't make any additional money via commission, (as I'm on salary) if the customer finds a $50,000 new SUV that meets their needs, or a $2,500 wholesale pre-owned vehicle. Yes, I do get volume bonuses each month if I help sufficient buyers find what they want and need. But not commission per sale. Just a different business model. I don't set prices, I convey dealer offers, and convey customer concerns for the dealership to consider. Just like a real estate agent does between a buyer and a seller. (Yes, I do have a KY Real Estate license in escrow).

    RE: Early payoff. Please see page 4 of your Ford Customer Review Copy of the KY Vehicle Retail Installment Contract you received and signed during closing on your new Ford vehicle with Ford Motor Credit financing. In paragraph A on page 4 of 7, the Payments section starts with : "You must make all payments in U.S. funds when they are due. You may prepay your debt at any time without penalty "I absolutely agree with doing your homework online before entering a dealership. I love it when someone comes in with the stock number of a vehicle they found in our inventory and wants to see it, understand it, and drive it.

    Here's my best advice to any potential Ford buyer:
    a. Hit the Ford webpage, build the vehicle the way you want it online, then print that out. Note the Ford MSRP as you build the vehicle on line. Also note Ford estimates payments for you. The hit local Ford dealer websites and see what they have that matches your want list. Do be aware, just because you built it on line does not guarantee a dealer has a perfect match. Dealers can do a locate for you, at no additional cost, but again, there is no guarantee we can find exactly what you want. We will find the closest possible match, show you that window sticker to confirm if meets your needs and is acceptable, then proceed with pricing once that's agreed.
    b. Next, on the Ford webpage, look for "Rebates and Incentives", go to that page, enter the year and model, see the rebates and incentives offered, and print it out. Some incentives and rebates require the deal to be structured a certain way, and some are for certain equipment groups. Example, an F150 XLT may have lots of rebates while an XL may have fewer. Another example, a incentive may be available as cash back if you trade in a vehicle, or if you finance thru Ford, or if you have money down. Anyway, read how to qualify for each type rebate as Ford spells that out in the rebate/incentives page by model.
    c. Get pre-qualified at your bank! Know what fits your budget, and have your banker that holds your accounts and knows you tell you that. Get the best rate with them, and then keep that info with you when you visit the dealer to see the vehicle, and while you consider dealer offered financing options. Failing to do this and going from dealer to dealer applying for credit can ding your credit score. Doing it once with your banker will not!
    d. Do research your used vehicle's value, in several sources, including Auto-Trader.com and KBB. Do be realistic about your vehicles condition, be accurate when you enter mileage and equipment and condition. Because there's no sense trying to inflate the number in those on line applications, just to come to a dealer who can see the bald tires, see the dents, see the trash in the car, and see the stains on the seats, and who has to take that into account when he makes an offer for your car. Be realistic. do your homework, be prepared with accurate information. Negotiate from a standpoint of accurate information.
    e. Call your bank if you owe money on your trade and get a 10-day payoff for your car before you hit the dealership. With customer permission, we can do this with the customer present, but you need to know what you owe on the car you own now, as well as the trade value before you hit a dealership. Why? If we both agree your car is worth $10,000, and you still owe $13,000, you have negative equity, and that means you either need to come up with a down payment, or add that amount to the financing of your new car. What that means is you will be adding that negative equity to the cost, and depreciation of your new car. Yes, that means you are digging a deeper whole financially. If necessity says you just need to get the new vehicle to meet your lifestyle, business needs, or family needs, then do so, but be aware of your situation upfront. You don't need to learn about these things, and be shocked by it when you are trying to decide what vehicle you really need at the dealership. Know it upfront, then when you get to the dealership knowing your situation, you can focus on what vehicle really is best for your and really fits your budget.
    f. Last, before a visit, call the dealer, insure that vehicle on the website is still there, and didn't sell 2 hours ago, and set an appointment to see exactly what you want to see, by stock number if possible. When I know what time my customer is coming in, I get the vehicle key, be sure it's still available, and am ready when you hit the door to show you what you came to see. And, if availability changes, I call the customer and tell them that to either find what else they'd like to see, or to save them the trip.

    As you do the research, print the stuff out, staple it together, and bring it along. The best way to come to an agreement is to have the facts available for all to see. I appreciate it when a customer shows me how he arrived at his figures, the same as the dealership is prepared on request to show how they arrived at their figures. And, it really does make the whole experience faster, easier, and more enjoyable as it reduces the stress levels of discovering facts to consider at the last minute when you are trying to make a decision.

    Remember, if you want to you can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your house to work! :-)
    I am not personally in the market for a new vehicle at this time, but thank you for taking the time to better educate us on the process.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Mid South
    Posts
    435
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    I'm looking for a slightly used BLACK 2010 -2013 GMC, crew cab, short bed, 4x4, 1500 or 2500.

  3. #3
    HURRICANEBOB Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Catfish Bob View Post
    I'm looking for a slightly used BLACK 2010 -2013 GMC, crew cab, short bed, 4x4, 1500 or 2500.
    Hit the Bob Swope webpage. Got one. Might work, if not no harm. Salary' not commission, and enjoying truck rides. 2707357814.

  4. #4
    HURRICANEBOB Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by SLP View Post
    I am not personally in the market for a new vehicle at this time, but thank you for taking the time to better educate us on the process.
    I enjoy informed buyers' and just think there's less pressure when you talk straight with folks. I'm glad to make things easy for folks, just like sharing fishing spots.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    302
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    Filed a complaint with bbb, see where that goes...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Huntsville, AL
    Posts
    2,378
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    Haven't dealt with a car dealer in years, don't want to pay them the 1 to ? thousand dollars they make off the deal. I'm glad others do, because that puts used vehicles in circulation for me to buy from private sellers. On top of that, new vehicle prices are just plain stupid. Low interest rates, and peoples' willingness to go into huge debt have jacked vehicle prices up something awful. (BTW, seen the price of a new boat? The price tag on a new 21 foot bass boat will make you faint!)

    Last time I tried a dealer, I saw a used truck I liked on their lot, so I went in to ask them the price. A sales guy wanted to open a 'contact form' and started in with a 'how much are looking to pay per month' spiel. I told him I just wanted to know how much they'd sell the pickup for.

    The guy asks me to have a seat at one of the desks among the row of others while he goes to find out. I decline and say I'll just hang out. While standing there, I see people at a couple of other desks sitting anxiously while their salespeople write stuff down on forms. I feel a little sorry for them, because their expressions and body language make me think of hungry sheep waiting for food.

    The sales manager comes out and starts in again with the spiel. I'm getting irritated now, but politely as possible I ask how much the truck costs. No finance options or forms, just the bottom line price. The guy goes cold, and tells me I'm welcome to join the salesman at his desk if I want a price.

    I walked out, and they seemed glad to be rid of me. Apparently it's lot easier to shear sheep than deal with a pain in the ass like myself.

    I'm sure not all dealers are like that, and hopefully recent economic times have eliminated the ones who are.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    302
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    Got my $200 in interest back from Bill Collins, thanks to BBB. I won't be going back there though.



    Quote Originally Posted by RangerZ520 View Post
    Filed a complaint with bbb, see where that goes...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    11,442
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    Quote Originally Posted by RangerZ520 View Post
    Got my $200 in interest back from Bill Collins, thanks to BBB. I won't be going back there though.
    **** Skippy!! Glad it worked out.

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