Stingray hydrofoil stabilizer

[sweetwater]

Thanks for the replies. I really have no problem with my boat a 175 pro team tracker with a 50 2 stoke. I just thought it could ad an advantage in rough water and stability and plane out sooner? I'm still up in the air on it.

If you have that 50-2 bolted to a setback your holeshot should be good with that hull. If you don't have a setback then imho I think your money would be better spent on one verses the whaletail.

[Les Young]

I went from a aluminium prop that I had to run a hydrafoil to avoid porpising with to the same size in a stainless & never had to run the hydrafoil again. Buddy ran it for years & it would porpise unbelievably until he installed a hydrafoil. I bought the boat & bought a stainless prop in the same diameter & pitch & the boat never porpised again with the little 70 horse Johnson until I traded it in on an Xpress H-56 a few years later.Had to reprop it too to avoid the rearend breaking loose when getting trimmed up. Also had an older hydrasport with a 150 merc. that porpised badly & had to run a hydrafoil on. It would beat you to death with anything less than wide open throttle & repropped it & it never porpised again. The proper setup will usually eliminate any need for a hydrafoil on a bass boat. Without enough cup a prop can cause a boat to porpise badly & over time a prop can loose cup. I'd try a fews different props before I went with a hydrafoil first if I were you as I think you'll be happier in the long run. You may just need your prop worked by a good prop shop too if it's a stainless prop.

[Les Young]

I went form a aluminium prop that I had to run a hydrafoil to avoid porpising with to the same size in a stainless & never had to run the hydrafoil again. Buddy ran it for years & it would porpise unbelievably. I bought the boat & bought a stainless prop & the little 70 horse Johnson never gave me a problem at all until I sold it a few years later. Also had an older hydrasport with a 150 merc. that porpised badly & had to run a hydrafoil on. It would beat you to death with anything less than wide open throttle I repropped it & it never porpised again. The proper setup will usually eliminate any need for a hydrafoil on a bass boat. Without enough cup a prop can cause a boat to porpise badly & over time a prop can loose cup. I'd try different props before I went with a hydrafoil first if I were you as I think you'll be happier in the long run.

[sweetwater]

I went form a aluminium prop that I had to run a hydrafoil to avoid porpising with to the same size in a stainless & never had to run the hydrafoil again. Buddy ran it for years & it would porpise unbelievably. I bought the boat & bought a stainless prop & the little 70 horse Johnson never gave me a problem at all until I sold it a few years later. Also had an older hydrasport with a 150 merc. that porpised badly & had to run a hydrafoil on. It would beat you to death with anything less than wide open throttle I repropped it & it never porpised again. The proper setup will usually eliminate any need for a hydrafoil on a bass boat. Without enough cup a prop can cause a boat to porpise badly & over time a prop can loose cup. I'd try different props before I went with a hydrafoil first if I were you as I think you'll be happier in the long run.

In your examples the porpoise begins when the aluminum prop starts to waver as it begins to get stressed. That waver causes the pitch angle to change which in turn causes the loss of "grip" and the boat falls down, the prop waver will then cease and the porpoise cycle begins again. The ss prop is at least 5 times stronger than the aluminum prop is and it will not waver at all from the holeshot to the top end hence there's no porpoise.

There are other things that can cause a porpoise such as unstable trim angles, weight distribution and improper engine setback but that's probably a whole different subject.