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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hog wallow Meade Co. Ky.
    Posts
    462
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    PULL THE HEADS !
    Wear not there yet . Don't take the heads off man this is a process of elimination and were not done yet .
    The 2 things Im thinking it is is the VRO or power packs . Why not running hot ? Well shutting your engine off and right back on will not cool it enough to make it stop over heating in fact if it was hot and you turn it off it will in fact get 5 to 10 Deg. hotter its called carry over .
    The VRO , If at high RPMs the VRO starves for oil it will set off the long tone this could also be the float bulb in the oil tank the oil float bulb could be heavy and sinking to the bottom of the tank this will set off the alarm . These floats go belly up quite often and there high for what they are . There is also a filter screen in the bottom of the oil tank if it is clogged up it will starve for oil.. There is a sensor in the VRO it's self and it will cause this to happen . The first thing i would change is the screen in the oil tank and the fuel filter under the hood . I take it they have never been changed in the 20 years of the motors life.
    Likes GeoFisher liked this post

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Alexandria, KY.
    Posts
    42
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    Quote Originally Posted by olgreenboat View Post
    PULL THE HEADS !
    Wear not there yet . Don't take the heads off man this is a process of elimination and were not done yet .
    The 2 things Im thinking it is is the VRO or power packs . Why not running hot ? Well shutting your engine off and right back on will not cool it enough to make it stop over heating in fact if it was hot and you turn it off it will in fact get 5 to 10 Deg. hotter its called carry over .
    The VRO , If at high RPMs the VRO starves for oil it will set off the long tone this could also be the float bulb in the oil tank the oil float bulb could be heavy and sinking to the bottom of the tank this will set off the alarm . These floats go belly up quite often and there high for what they are . There is also a filter screen in the bottom of the oil tank if it is clogged up it will starve for oil.. There is a sensor in the VRO it's self and it will cause this to happen . The first thing i would change is the screen in the oil tank and the fuel filter under the hood . I take it they have never been changed in the 20 years of the motors life.
    No they have not been changed. I will order them today! Thanks for the suggestion.

    I was thinking the same thing with the over heating. It should not cool off enough to start right up and run WOT.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Bardstown, KY
    Posts
    83
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    Hit my dad up. Len Wathen 502-314-9209.... He's in Bardstown, KY does excellent work several guys here on this board go to him. He also has really good prices and beats most of the dealers around the area. He's retired now and this is his full time gig. Hit him up

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Bardstown, KY
    Posts
    83
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    Aswald next time need to hit my pops up. He charges like $50 an hour which is way cheaper than most shops and he only charges when he's actually working on your boat

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hog wallow Meade Co. Ky.
    Posts
    462
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    I took this from http://www.maxrules.com/fixomcvro.html
    VRO house routing http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/VROpics/VRO_hoses.gif

    1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating.
    V6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is ALSO a steady constant beep.

    2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)
    3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).
    http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/general/warning.gif If the warning horn is the black plastic three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it
    does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hog wallow Meade Co. Ky.
    Posts
    462
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    Need the model number of your motor . I would take the Thermostat out .
    Likes Moveon liked this post

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Location
    Alexandria, KY.
    Posts
    42
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    Quote Originally Posted by olgreenboat View Post
    I took this from http://www.maxrules.com/fixomcvro.html
    VRO house routing http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/VROpics/VRO_hoses.gif

    1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating.
    V6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is ALSO a steady constant beep.

    2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)
    3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).
    http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/general/warning.gif If the warning horn is the black plastic three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it
    does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.
    I get one long steady beep after running the engine WOT for about 5 -10 Mins. Mine sticker says it is either fuel restriction or over heating. It does beep on start. I am doing what I feel comfortable doing, after that I guess I will be making the call to someone else.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Louisville
    Posts
    3
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrankBaitKilla View Post
    Aswald next time need to hit my pops up. He charges like $50 an hour which is way cheaper than most shops and he only charges when he's actually working on your boat
    If I need service again at some point, I'll hit you up. I got raped by the guy in Mount Washington. He had the motor for like 2 weeks and charged way more than I thought was reasonable once the work was done. Live and learn, at least it runs great now. Thanks for the heads-up.

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