PROP QUESTION......PLEASE HELP!

[jonasseed]

The prop on my boat is aluminum. The numbers on the back say 13x19. Im looking to switch to a stainless steel one. It is a 115 evinrude v-4. Do i have to match up the numbers exactly? I really have noone to ask. Is it really worth the money to switch to the ss prop?

Thanks guys,

Jonas Ertel

[MsgMills]

Can't help you on the size part of your question, but take the prop to a boat dealer close to you and they can help you order the right size SS one for your boat....

As far as will it help, depends on weather you want to keep the prop in one piece when you hit something... Could cost quite a bit to replace the prop or have it repaired when you damage it, but a SS prop is almost indestructable in my opinion... But keep watching on here and some of the members will give you more sound advice and help you more than this old Retired Military Man....

[buzzking]

what kinda boat you running, what kind of speed rpm numbers you getting, desire? Give me a little more info and I'll try to help. Also you may want to check out bassboatcentral.com. There are many many setup gurus over there

[jonasseed]

im runnin a 18.5 foot nitro with a 115 v4-evinrude...

thanks guys for your help!

Jonas

[Riverfisher]

You probably want to go down in pitch one or two inches.

For your prop, 13 X 19, 13 is the diameter and 19 is the pitch. A 13x18 or 13x17 SS will probably perform equal to your 13x19 aluminum because the blades flex on the aluminum.

However all this depends on the performance of the boat right now you should be maxing out your rpms at wide open throttle.

[Devils Horse]

It depends on why you want to get an SS prop. If it's just reliability you're after you could just buy a spare prop and keep it in the boat. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think it'll boost performance all that much on a 115 engine. If it were me, I'd just get a spare and spend the SS prop money on a fishing trip or 3.

[phoenix]

>It depends on why you want to get an SS prop. If it's just
>reliability you're after you could just buy a spare prop and
>keep it in the boat. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think it'll
>boost performance all that much on a 115 engine. If it were
>me, I'd just get a spare and spend the SS prop money on a
>fishing trip or 3.

Sound advice !

[jonasseed]

IM RUNNING IN THE RED ON MY RPM'S WHEN I HAVE IT FULL BLAST. IT JUST SEEMS THAT WHEN I TRIM IT UP ABOUT 1/2 WAY IT DOESNT GO ANY FASTER.......

THANKS,
JONAS

[mertens357]

I agree, I would stick with the aluminum prop just go up in size to a 20. That will help slow your rpm's down. They say every inch larger is 200 rpm's, so I don't know how high in the "Red" is for you, but if your engine is running high Rpm's you would get more out of a larger prop.

[HURRICANEBOB]

I have always run aluminum because:
1. I can buy 2 aluminum for the price of one Stainless, and that means I have a spare. A spare means I can always get home.
2. Aluminum props can be repaired, Stainless usually can not, unless you find a shop with expensive and specialized equipment (that means you'd pay more to fix a stainelss, than to buy a new aluminum.)
3. When your prop hits something, either what you hit, or the prop, or the shafts and gears in the lower unit have to give. I'd love it if what I hit gave up, but usually the rock or log wins that fight. The prop is far cheaper to fix than the lower unit, and aluminum gives way, and bends, well before a stainless would. So yep, you will damage an aluminum prop more often, but you will be protecting the expensive lower unit. My motor is a 1995 Merc, I ripped upabout 7 propos in the 11 years I've run it in the Ohio River, and spring at Cumberland twith the log jams afloat. The lower unit is still the original one, and still humming along.

4. And the last reason......people very seldom steal aluminum props off boats. But, you'd be surprised how may $300-400 stainless props got bye-bye. I have never seen a boat with a cheaper aluminum prop have a propeller shaft lock on it. I've seen many boats with stainless steel props, locked up for security. So you save money on the prop cost, and you save the cost of buying a propeller lock.

But then again, I run a pontoon, and speed is something I dream about.

[DYNATRAK]

i'll chime in here with my own situation. i have a 15' Dynatrak fiberglass bassboat. i have a 1993 Johnson 60hp. my prop is a black michelin i believe 13 1/4 x 17 three blade prop. i also installed a hydrofoil which gets me out of the hole VERY fast.

After rebuilding my carbs and installing a tiny tach, at WOT i run at 40 mph and my rpms get up to 6100 if i really get on it and trim it all the way up.

i know that's too high rpms and do not push it like that, per my manual. afraid i'll blow my motor.

i've been told i should try changing to a 13 1/4 x 19 to lower the rpms. what do you guys think? how will that affect boat performance, hole shot, top end speed, etc?

i'm content with staying with the black aluminum. anyone try one of those 4 blade comprops they sell in basspro? what will the 4 blade do compared to a 3 blade?

nathan

[F16ENGMGR]

Contact Plapps Marine on the web. Provide Matt with plenty of info (boat length, prop size, your current WOT RPM's.) Not sure of what your engine height is off the transom or what you're running boat wise.

I only run SS prop's but fish mostly on the Ohio River. Personal preference but I'd be replacing/repairing props monthly.

Most reputable shops will let you borrow a prop for testing purposes if you leave them your drivers license or credit card number. Get it done before everyone starts whining about their toys not running.

STAY WITHIN THE FACTORY WOT RPM RANGE.

Save some for seed.

Good Luck