Fly Rods, reels, etc...

[Chubminnow]

Anyone here know much about fly fishing in regards to the different rods that are available? Take bass fishing for instance, there are numerous rods available and each one can and does serve it's purpose depending on what an individual is fishing for and the type of fishing he's doing. There are rods like broom handles and there are rods like buggy whips.

Is the fly rod world similar? Are there lighter action verses heavier action fly rods available. The type of fly fishing I would be doing most is fishing on a decent sized farm pond (approximately 3 acres) for bluegill and bass, and I would also occassionally try fly fishing on the Cumberland River. If anyone has any advice they can share I would appreciate it...or leave me a message or shoot me an email.

[Tim_T]

Chub, fly rods are used according to weight and length. For example, a 4 weight rods is what you would use in small streams that don't produce big trout. If you were targeting muskie or stripers, you would want somewhere around a 9 weight. Length matters most depending on where you are fishing. If you are fishing a small stream, particularly one that has a lot of trees and brush lining the banks, you would want a shorter rod, something like a 7 1/2 foot.

If you are looking for one all-around rod, I would recommend a 9 foot, 6 weight. The quality of the rod is very important, because in fly casting the rod does the work. Hope that helps.

[Bonefish]

I have rods from 8W to 2W. Believe it or not my favorite rod for bass is a Western Orvis 2W which has muscle in the butt in and a fast action tip. With a 8 lb tippet, I can throw 25 to 30 yds with a hairless popper. I have caught many 4 to 8 lb bass on this rod. Unfortunately, Orvis stop making that rod. The secret is knowing the total rod, line and tippet setup that you need for a given application. It you are going to fish for bonefish on a windy day, you need distance and power to double-haul to get the fly to the fish so you will need an 8W. If you are not going to fish with a fly rod a few time a year for bluegills or bass, there are some less expensive rods out there that will do the job. I would suggest that you get with someone who fly fishes alot and let them give you some tips. When you are dealing with fly rods, it is like anything else. It is knowing the little things that will make fly fishing enjoyable. There are a lot of tricks to the trade as in all other types of fishing. I might add too that an expensive reel is not necessary unless you are dealing with powerful fish and then you may need a good drag and may want to change spools which make the reels more expensive.

[redneckshadrap]

I have to agree with Tim T. The 9" 6wt is the most verstile.

I once had a 3wt, but a 16"smallie about ripped it out of my hand...LOL!!!!

Panfish will easily be taken on a 4wt. Which is actually the next size I plan to add to my collection.

Billy

[Tim_T]

Billy,

I have a 7 foot, 9 inch 4/5 weight that I love for smallie fishing on streams. It is an Orvis Clearwater, which is their cheap version, but I really like it. Cost was $125 but I am not sure Orvis still makes that rod or not. Bought mine at Adventure Angler when it was still behind Quest Outdoors in Louisville. If you can find one, I would recommend that rod, especially for the price.

Tim

[Bonefish]

I noticed Cabelas has a St.Croix 9', 6w on sale. It was $110 and now $54 with a 4.7 of 5.0 rating. This would be a rod worth considering. Item #0G-317233.

[Moose1am]

Scientific Anglers Makes some fly reel and maybe fly rods. They make fly lines as well. A good weight forward (WF) Line is a good starting line. Get the floating type. They make sinking tip lines as well if you are after deep spawning bluegills in the 8 to 10 ft depths.

A good 5 or 6 weight line matched to a 5 weight rod or 6 weight rod respectively will do the job for bluegills, bass and even trout.

Something from 8 to 9 ft in length is perfect for local ponds.

You can spend a fortune on fly fishing once you get into it.

Waders (Stocking foot Chest waders made up of 6mm neoprene can be used in cold mountain streams or you can opt for the thinner ones that are more breathable. If you go the stocking foot type you will need wading boots.

A fly fishing vest is another thing that come to mind. Or a Kayak or even a tube float can be used in quiet waters.

There are dry and wet flies. dry flies float on the surface and are great when there is a particular insect hatch such as the may flies or Caddis flies.

There are a lot of good video tapes out there that can instruct you how to make the various casts. And Scientific Anglers has a good book that introduces you to the basics of fly fishing.

You will learn to tie the nail knot and loop knots to make fly line and leaders.

Mayfly nymphs live in the water until they hatch out in May or June depending on the species. These tiny nymphs live in the detritus at the bottom of lakes and streams. You can use line sink and apply it to a long leader and then tie on a mayfly imitation nymph to catch bluegill, crappie or bass in Southern IN.

Terrestrials make good flies as well. Imitation crickets, grasshoppers and ants are some that I prefer to use.

Anyone here know much about fly fishing in regards to the different rods that are available? Take bass fishing for instance, there are numerous rods available and each one can and does serve it's purpose depending on what an individual is fishing for and the type of fishing he's doing. There are rods like broom handles and there are rods like buggy whips.

Is the fly rod world similar? Are there lighter action verses heavier action fly rods available. The type of fly fishing I would be doing most is fishing on a decent sized farm pond (approximately 3 acres) for bluegill and bass, and I would also occasionally try fly fishing on the Cumberland River. If anyone has any advice they can share I would appreciate it...or leave me a message or shoot me an email.

[Chubminnow]

You guys are a wealth of information sometimes and I appreciate each response...Is anyone here familiar with the Bass Pro White River brand of fly rod? Or is anyone you know familiar with these rods? As for fly reels...can you all give me some decent manufacturers to check out? In both rod and reel I'm looking for decent, not the best but decent. Thanks again!

[mastin03]

I used to do a lot of trout fishing back home in the rivers before i left Colorado and came to school. Now I dont get out much anymore until I head back home, then the bass rods are put up and the fly rod comes out again. I would personally check out the St. Croix that was mentioned in an earlier post. They make some very good rods, and that deal sounds like a steal. Something else to look into as well. My first rod/reel combo was a reddington, and I really liked it. They also offer a lifetime waranty on the rod. If it breaks, you send it in adn you get a new one. Im not sure about their prices anymore, but when I got mine (better than 10 years ago) the rod/reel combo was only $100. Check in with them and see if they still make "starter sets." I wouldnt go out and get a fancy rod right out of the gates becasue you really arent going to be able to appreciate it, or make it preform the way that it could when you are just learning. Once you get the hang of things and really get into the fly fishing you will want to upgrade your rod. Upper end rods in the flyfishing world make a lot more difference than in the bass fishing world. Check out reddington....thats where i would start anyway.

P.S. once you get into it and want to upgrade....take a good hard look at Gloomis.

[Bonefish]

I would consider the Cabela's Prestige Fly Reel. It has a 5 out of 5 rating. It is on sale, was $49.99, now $39.99. I would put it on the St.Croix rod and you would have a great outfit for a great price. I would buy it in a heart beat, but I have 12 flyrods now. Make sure you match up your reel with the Line wt you are going to use. It# 7IS-317964. A 9' rod is good around ponds because it gets the line up and over the weeds on the back cast. This reel has been used on bonefish with good reviews. You know I love those bonefish!

[Bonefish]

I guess I should complete the package by saying the line and leader is also important. Lines these days are expensive and as a rule you get what you pay for, but the Scientific Angler Air Cel line is a good starting line at $24. I would get the WF-DT line. This a weight-forward, double-tapper line, which means the WF line helps "shoot" the line out a little better than a non-WF line because of extra line material at the end of the line. The DT means you can swithch ends once one end is worn. I would consider the Air Cel WF-DT line, from Cabela's, It# IH-311739. As far as a leader, I personally use the "loop" system from Orvis, but you pay more for it. The "loop system" makes it easy to change leaders and tippets without tying knots. However, once you learn to tie the "Nail Knot" you can put your own "loop" system on, if you desire. You will also need to use the appropriate size tippet for the fly weight use. If you have too heavy of a fly on for the tippet, the fly will "die" before a complete "layout" occurs. Research some good fly fishing articles and pick up the basics of fly fishing and it will save you from getting frustrated. Too many people use too much "arch and wrist motion" when learning to fly fish. Also, the "pause" before and after the forward and backcast is so important to maintain the proper "loop." It is technique that matters. I once watched an Orvis instructor throw 30 yrds of line with just his arm without a rod. My uncle started me fly fishing with I was 8 years old and that was fifty five years ago, and it is still one of my greatest pleasures, along with the F-N-F and those big, beatutiful brownfish. Hope this helps and you continue to persue the art of fly fishing. Bonefish

[Bonefish]

I thought I had lost the above post. Sorry