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Thread: Fluorocarbon

  1. #1
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    Fluorocarbon

    I need some opinions on fluorocarbon. I've been using gold/clear Vanish and I love the fact you can see the line and the fish can't. I used to strictly use low vis green mono but anymore I just can't see it. Plus I was tired of respooling my reels before every trip out.

    Well, I have come to the conclusion that Vanish *****! I've lost more fish in the last couple of weeks than I lost all last year. The line frequently breaks when I set the hook. Its one thing to have a big fish break off after a couple seconds but when the line breaks before you even feel the tension of the fish that will get your blood boiling. Hell, the last time it happened, when I finally regained consciousness, I was strangling my partner on the back of the boat.

    So, is this a common problem with fluorocarbon lines in general or do you think it is the Vanish? Can anyone make some recommendations on line to use? I keep hearing that p-line is the way to go if you can deal with the memory.

  2. #2
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    I have never had a problem with vanish. like vanish alot. p-line is a good line also. maybe you got a bad spool, had that same problem with suffix braid.

  3. #3
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    I had the same problem jig fishing with Medhvy baitcast rod with 12lb test. Break offs cost me a tournament. Went up to 20lb test same rod, haven't had a break off since. I like it, very sensitive and I can see the line like you said.
    Bassky

  4. #4
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    I have been using Vicious and it has been working great. In the past there has been issues with knot breakage. P-line is also a good line used it almost all the time and still do sometimes but now most of my line is Vicious floro and ultimate

  5. #5
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    Seaguar 25 pound is my favorite flurocabon. Expensive but great sensitivity and lasts forever.

  6. #6
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    P-Line Floroclear. It is mono that is floro coated. I use the 15lb. test and love it. If I am fishing heavy cover, it's P-Line 17lb. test CXX. A couple overhand knots and that stuff will hold the Devil down. You can pull small cars out of the river with that CXX.



    Ray Rigby

  7. #7
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    had the same problem with vanish,went to 15# p line 100% fluorocarbon, havent lost a fish since, vanish is junk line.

  8. #8
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    The thing about fluorocarbon is if you get a bad backlash or a kink in the line it breaks easily . I use 14lb Vanish Trans and have caught bass up to 7lbs on it . I tried 8lb on a spinning reel and line twist drove me nuts . When fishing for gill the bait would spin when reeling it in and after a while the line would twist around the split shot so bad I had to re-tie . Now Im only using it for worm fishing for bass due to the cost - you can buy a 1100yd spool of Big Game that will last forever for less than a 300 yd spool of Vanish . Ive heard to if you soak a rag in Armour-All and run fluorocarbon thru it when re-spooling it also helps . BTW , does anyone have a older golden Shimano Chronarch SF they want to sell ? I love this reel and shimano isnt making them anymore .
    Tight lines

  9. #9
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    I've tried Berkley Vanish in the past and have seen the same results. Breaks way to easy and cannot land big fish. I switched everything to Viciuos Flourocarbon this year and have not had any problems.

    Charlie

  10. #10
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    I was pulling the Vanish off of two reels last night and noticed fairly significant frays/nicks in the line an inch or so above the hook. Both of these rods were fitted with texas rigs and it seems to me that possibly the bullet weight was causing the problem in the line. JUNK!

    I appreciate the input on this topic.

  11. #11
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    I have been happy with Bass Pro Shops fluorocarbon line. I have all of my rods spooled with various diameters. The only exception is topwater rods that I still spool with Big game mono.

  12. #12
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    Re: Fluorocarbon

    Line twist can be a real headache. But you can do something about line twist. Simply let the line out behind a moving boat (if you are in a boat) and remove any baits or terminal tackle from the end of the line. Once all the line is out simply reel it back in under tension. Put a finger out in front of the reel's pickup and hold the line so that it slips though your fingers. This will help re spool the line back onto the reel properly.

    Once you have the line back on the reel then get a can of "REEL MAGIC" and spray some of this onto the reel's line. Let the reel magic soak in a few minutes or do this the night before you go fishing the next day.

    You mentioned something about a spinning reel and line twist and a lead shot on the line? If you are tying a bait to the line and the bait is rotating around then you are going to get more line twist no matter what type of line you are using. Some lines may be more forgiving of line twist than other. You might try adding a small ball bearing type swivel to the end of the line to help prevent the line twist.

    I fished for bass for years using a snap swivel attached to the end of my lines. Even braided lines that were used in the past 1950's and 1960s. This allowed my crank baits to run OK and prevented the line twist. Crank baits can get their hooks fouled together and come back in rotating in circles and twisting the line up all the way back in. The snap swivel will help stop some of this line twist. Of course we were using bait casting reels back them not spinning reels.

    These days I fish a lot with ultra light spinning outfits. And Line Twist is my worst enemy. Putting the line onto the spinning reel in the right direction is key. I use the "Line Minder" device to perform this task. You can buy these on line at Bass Pro Shops. Simply do a search for "Line Minder" and you will find this device in the BPS catalog on line. It's not expensive and works good. But you can also just make sure that the spool is laying down and the line is coming off in the same direction as the reel turns. Reel in a few feet of line and then drop the rod tip. See if the line twist. If it does then flip the spool of new line over the other way and test again. When you get the reel laying on the right side or in the right direction you can dip the rod and take the tension off the line and see that there is no line twist. Continue putting new line on your reel when you get the new reel of line laying in the proper direction. You can have someone hold the new line also. I like to stick a dowel rod or pencil thought the spool of new line and have someone (dad use to do this) hold the line for you as you reel the new line onto your fishing reel.

    The Armor All poured onto a clean rag sounds like a good idea. I wonder if the Armor All is the same type of chemicals at the "reel magic" stuff?

    Quote Originally Posted by bassmanic1 View Post
    I tried 8lb on a spinning reel and line twist drove me nuts . When fishing for gill the bait would spin when reeling it in and after a while the line would twist around the split shot so bad I had to re-tie . Now I'm only using it for worm fishing for bass due to the cost - you can buy a 1100yd spool of Big Game that will last forever for less than a 300 yd spool of Vanish . Ive heard to if you soak a rag in Armour-All and run fluorocarbon thru it when re-spooling it also helps . BTW , does anyone have a older golden Shimano Chronarch SF they want to sell ? I love this reel and shimano isnt making them anymore .
    Tight lines

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