Hair jig painting/tying how to

[apb]

Once cured, we are ready to tie the tail. I’ll do a simple bucktail here with two colors. I start by winding the thread onto the neck of the jig (photo 5). I’m using Gudebrod rod winding thread in size A. Some folks like the kevlar thread, but I find it will cut the bucktail if you torque down to much. We’ll start by tying in the blue for the belly. Cut off a section of tail about as big around as your pinky finger, lay it on the neck of the jig so that the end is as far past the hook bend as you want, then wrap the thread around a few times (photo 6). You do not want to torque down on the thread at this point.

[apb]

Once you have a few wraps, you squeeze the tail between your thumb and index finger to even it out across the belly of the jig (photo 7). Once you have it like you want, make a few tight wraps with the thread.


Next, cut a section of black bucktail and lay it on top of the jig. Make sure to match the length to that of the blue you tied in already (photo 8). Wrap the thread around a few times.

[apb]

As before, use your thumb and index finger to squeeze the black into shape on the jig so that it matches up with the blue, and then make a few tight wraps and do a half hitch knot (photo 9). Now you’ll use a single edge razor to trim the excess bucktail from the head of the jig (photo 10).

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Your jig will now look like that in photo 11. I normally would have the wraps/tail a little closer to the head and less of a gap, but I got in a hurry to finish this one. Add a couple of drops of Zap-a-Gap glue (the stuff with the pink label) to the threads (photo 12), wait a couple of seconds for it to sink in a little, and then continue wrapping the thread until it is even.

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Tie a couple of half hitches, and then trim the thread. Add a few drops of Head Cement to the wraps (photo 13), and you are done (photo 14). The only thing left to do is fish it!

And thus concludes the lure lesson for the day Hope that helps out!

Andrew

[Col Forbin]

I may have to tie some hair jigs now too. I have all of that equipment (vice, bobbin, threads, knot cement) from my fly tying days. Looks good. The paint pictures really help.

[RoadToad]

Thanks, that does help a lot. I need to start tying some soon, so I can have some ready for next year's FnF!

[peter]

Nice Andrew. We should make a video and put it on the site. No kidding. I am getting back into that.

Peter

[apb]

Glad you guys found it useful.

Peter, if there are other ways to do how too type threads here, I would be interested. Same if you have suggestions of better ways to do it. Like this could easily be done up on a web page on fishin.com and linked back to the forum if that would save server space on photos.

Andrew

[UpaCrick]

Nice tutorial Andrew. It should definately help out some folks. The only thing I saw that needs to be added is:

BEFORE you cure the powder paint, clean out the the eye of the jig!
If you don't clean it before curing, you are going to have to dremel out the eye. This stuff cures HARD. I like to clean off all the paint from jig eye, not just the opening. I don't want anything "sawing" on the line.

UpaCrick

[apb]

...BEFORE you cure the powder paint, clean out the the eye of the jig! If you don't clean it before curing, you are going to have to dremel out the eye. This stuff cures HARD. I like to clean off all the paint from jig eye, not just the opening. I don't want anything "sawing" on the line.

UpaCrick

Good point! Seems to be more of an issue with smaller jigs. Don't remember having that problem on the striper sized ones. Though I did use a fluid bed on those which might make a difference.

Andrew

[Bad_Company]

Is the fluid bed is worth the money? I powder coat FNF and crappie jigs, but I use vinyl and clear coat on my bass jigs. I have been thinking of getting one but I dont know if it will be worth the money for what few things I powder coat.