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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    KY
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    Question Aluminum or Stainless Sell Prop_Considerations

    That should read Aluminum or Stainless Steel Prop....don't know if you can or how to edit a thread title??

    Just got back from Barkley and need to replace my prop (90 Hp Merc Outboard) . This is the second time I've lost one to the "Barkley Wood" .

    So once again, I need some input from the board. Should I replace it with a SS this time OR stay with AL. Friend of mine says, it you go with SS, and then hit some WOOD, ETC, I risk losing (damaging) my lower unit.

    Any advise, or experiences would certainly be appreciated .

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Shepherdsville,Ky
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    Re: Aluminum or Stainless Sell Prop_Considerations

    If it's a newer mercury it has the flo torque mounting hub and is designed to break before it damages the lower unit. I have a 2003 Mercury 90 hp and I put a SS prop after I tore mine up in Tulles creek at Rough, I hit a few small piece's of wood and no damage yet. I found a new Michigan Rapter prop on the internet for $133, it was a still. It was Northeastern boat warehouse or something like that.
    Kydog

  3. #3
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    Re: Aluminum or Stainless Sell Prop_Considerations

    It does have the flo torque mounting hub, so are you thinking I should not be concerned with going with the SS. But, if I do, should I pack an extra prop/mounting hub in the boat.....As you can tell, I don't know Jack about this ?

    Thanks for your input .

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
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    Re: Aluminum or Stainless Sell Prop_Considerations

    From my experience with a 1984 johnson 70hp, definately stainless. It chews up and spits out rocks, half submerged drywall buckets and wood. The prop has a rubber bushing what will allow the prop to spin if too much pressure is applied. Now I don't hit any thing at full throttle..often. Hit four of those drywall buckets at full throttle in one day on the Ohio in West Virginia. Guess they were building a new apartment complex up in the hills some were. I used to have my props rebuilt 2-3 times a year while fishing the falls of the ohio and at $75 a pop that makes stainless is much cheaper.

    It became real clear how delicate aluminum props are when I dropped one of the steel clips from a ski rope on it while idling and it bent it as I watched. The clip only weighed about 4 ounces if that. It is not a question any longer for me. Boat also preformed better with steel...I guess it is more rigid.

  5. #5
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    Re: Aluminum or Stainless Sell Prop_Considerations

    Stainless much more rugged. I have hit many things over the years and have never once hurt my lower unit. A stainless prop may get knicked up a little but you can have those cleaned up and repaired at a prop shop versus knocking a blade completely off of aluminum. A good stainles prop will outlast and outperform any aluminum prop

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Avon, IN Maysville,Ky Columbia, Ky
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    Re: Aluminum or Stainless Sell Prop_Considerations

    I'm for saving the outdrive. Keep two Use the AL for rivers and shallows and around stumps. For a day on the lake use the Stainless. Precision Propeller here in indy fixes the AL props for $50 and fixes Stainless is $150

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Re: Aluminum or Stainless Sell Prop_Considerations

    If you go with this SS prop I would invest in a extra flo torque hub kit and keep it in the boat along with a wrench in case you have to make repair's on the water.
    Kydog

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