having issues with Braid on spinning Reel.

[riverrat12]

I to use braid quite a bit and will tell you I will not use the stealth again....same problems you had....your Mitchell is fine the line is the problem...IMO never have a problem with reg. spiderwire or fireline. Chuck

[peter]

An the advice on somebody at bass pro I bought braid specifically to eliminate line twist on a spamming real.
Also to get more distance with a relatively light lure.

I have had no line twist. Whatever I have is six pound diameter and has totally eliminated line twist. I don't like the no stretch aspect but if you want sensitivity, it certainly is. I think the real is a shimano 3 or 4000.

I have heard a lot of talk on here about special braid knotts and different ways to attach to the spool. I just treat it like it is mono. No special knott. It is hard to tie a knott because it is so limp and it's easy to cut yourself on it.

The guy told me it would last years. Only had it two years so don't know if he was exaggerating or not.

[Duayne]

I back my braid rigs with some mono to keep it from spinning loose on the spool. A double uni knot does the trick in securing the mono to the braid. A Palomar does the trick to the terminal tackle. I've had some braid on for five years and it's still going strong.

[jdw174]

Are you absolutely sure it's STEALTH? I've never seen it in Hi-Vis Yellow, and their website only lists it in either green or camo. One other thing I'll add is to NEVER attempt to reel in a fish against the drag. Nothing will put twist in a line faster. Like another poster said, use your hand to close the bail.

[Bassky]

Try this. Instead of cranking your reel to engage the bail, hand gage the bail instead. By engaging by cranking, loops develop on the spool. This will eliminate alot of the problems with spinning reels. Works with mono and floro too.
Bassky

[Duayne]

I keep my left hand next to the spool and feather the line like a thumb on a baitcaster. You can be just as precise with a spinning rig this way, and your hand is right there to close the bail after each cast. For "all out" casts, I still have my hand there as it's the habit I've aquired, I just don't feather. My hand is still there to close the bail. THAT is the best habit to have when using spinning gear. I agree that this will remove most of the line twist issues, given that a spinning rig and it's rollers function properly. I use the Shimano Spirex line of reels as I prefer the rear drag option to the front drag. These reels have been awesome with not putting line twist in the spool. Keep em clean, keep em oiled/lubed and they keep me fishing.

[crappiepappy]

I hate to ask, but .... did you spool the line on like it was a baitcast reel ?? You may have imparted alot of the twist when spooling up, if you did.
Also, the rigs you were casting could have also added twist ... they can spin when flying thru the air, and they can spin/twist when being retrieved.

I use 10/2 PowerPro hi-vis for casting Roadrunners & Whirly Bees ... and it's not uncommon for them to spin upon casting. But, I've yet to encounter a situation where I had to cut & retie.

I use the mono backing setup, too. Saves $$ from not having to fill the whole spool, & prevents the slick braid from slipping around the spool.

Some tips :

Have a pair of Child Size Fiskar Scissors for cutting braid ... clean & blunt cut, that will make threading the limp braid into small hook eyes a lot easier.
Have a wood dowel rod ... to wrap the braid around when you attempt to pull a bait free from a snag. Braid can cut you three ways ... long/deep/wide ... if you use your hand/fingers !! It can also cut into cork or foam handles, so I don't recommend using your rod handle !!
Loosen the drag just a bit ... just enough so that the drag slips on a hard hookset. You can strip a drag, or break a rod, if using braid & not being used to it or aware (experienced) of its no stretch qualities. You'll still get enough torque to slam the hook home, before the drag slips ... but you won't have to be going to the store for more rods !! LOL !!

... pappy

[GeoFisher]

I generally get some line twist when fishing, no MATTER what line I'm using. Floro and braids tend to do it more, but there are a couple easy solutions.

1). PUT it on the reel right to begin with. Look at the insert in the line, it will tell you the best way. THEY made the line, they know how to put it on. I don't always follow this method, but it generally works. If you have a LOT of working area, and I mean a lot, PUT the line on any way you want........THEN tie that line to a snap swivel, and hook it to something so the swivel will spin freely. Walk the line out 50-75 yards, or however far you want and then reel it back in. This will also eliminate pretty much all line twist, even the twist introduced at the factory, putting the line originally on the spool.

2). Flip the bail manually. Everytime you let the handle engage the bail you put 1/2 turn in the line. Do that 100 - 200 times a day and you will have a serious mess.

3). The roller bearing on the bail is the KEY to line twist. Make sure it is free and is well lubed. A couple sprays of reel magic or a drop of oil will go a long way in eliminating twist.

4). Baits will do this. Be mindful of what baits twist line, and fish them so they DON'T twist the line. Lots of folks fish a jig or a soft plastic or whatever 1/2 back to the boat, and then power crank the bait in. That will twist the line. Understand that and remedy it with my final hint.....5.

5). After a hard day/night of fishing, clip off the bait, let all the line out in the water behind the boat, and let it untwist. Reel it back on after a few minutes. This will eliminate almost all line twist.

[RoadToad]

Crappiepappy asked exactly what I was thinking, about how you spooled the line on in the first place. When you're spooling a spinning reel you need to put the spool on the floor and let the line come off the side, don't hold it up and let it spin off like you do when spooling a baitcaster. If that's what you did, the I would just re-spool the lines and start over. And the flipping the bail manually thing is definitely important, too. One more thing that helps is, when you've made a cast and need to take slack out of your line, don't just start cranking the reel, pick up the slack with the rod as much as you can first, then reel it in.

[ls1chris]

I Dont think it has to do with the way i put it on unless maybe the tape is causing a issue.As When i spool any of my reels up the line gets layed in the floor spool facing up and i apply tension while i crank the line on with a slow and steady retrieve.And usually on braid after spooling i will spray with reel magic and tie off to a stump and walk about 100 or so feet out then put even more tension on and walk back while i reel up the line.I have done this with baitcasting and spinning reels for the most part every time i spool up



The only lures he was using that day was shakey head with cut tail worms and texas rig ,granted it may have twisted some when casting the texas rig.But i still think he had about 4 or so knots between the spool and the first eye on the rod that day where he had to cut and retie.It may have been a bad spool of line but one thing i did notice was the line was bright yellow when we started and about halfway through the day it lost a good amount of color and was almost white looking .i will definetly be getting some more braid to put on and trie as for fishing in heavy cover and the sensitivity of the line my father liked it very well.I typically use about 8 pound line on the spinning reels and in braid i think it was 10lb test with 6lb diameter of the stealth braid he was using

[crappiepappy]

I Dont think it has to do with the way i put it on unless maybe the tape is causing a issue.As When i spool any of my reels up the line gets layed in the floor spool facing up and i apply tension while i crank the line on with a slow and steady retrieve.And usually on braid after spooling i will spray with reel magic and tie off to a stump and walk about 100 or so feet out then put even more tension on and walk back while i reel up the line.I have done this with baitcasting and spinning reels for the most part every time i spool up



The only lures he was using that day was shakey head with cut tail worms and texas rig ,granted it may have twisted some when casting the texas rig.But i still think he had about 4 or so knots between the spool and the first eye on the rod that day where he had to cut and retie.It may have been a bad spool of line but one thing i did notice was the line was bright yellow when we started and about halfway through the day it lost a good amount of color and was almost white looking .i will definetly be getting some more braid to put on and trie as for fishing in heavy cover and the sensitivity of the line my father liked it very well.I typically use about 8 pound line on the spinning reels and in braid i think it was 10lb test with 6lb diameter of the stealth braid he was using

OK ... since you've probably eliminated the twist coming from the spooling method used, it may have been the baits doing the twisting. NOW ... as far as the "knots" that showed up : commonly called "wind knots", but in my experience with casting braid ... they seem to occur more often from quick "wrist snap" casts. If you cast with a smooth/fluid motion, those knots don't seem to occur as often. I think these knots were occurring on the cast, & just not noticed until they became a problem (or were noticed). I say that, because if your lines were so twisted that they formed the knots, simply from the severe twist in the line, then I doubt much casting would have been possible.

... pappy