Boat size (safety related) question

[SLP]

Brakes get close to being required with 20 ft boats and up. Under, I'd call it a luxury. It also depends on where you are towing. If you pull through the mountains all the time, have it added.

Which Lund are you going with? It appears a 12 volt harness is standard on the Rebel XL and a 12/24 is standard on the Pro Guide. The Rebel XL has some packages that include a Motor Guide FW46 FB50 trolling motor. The Impact has a harness listed as standard but doesn't say which one. I'd ask your dealer. I think you are right on the edge as to needing a 24 volt motor. If you plan to fish long days or may stay in places on the weekend where you can't charge, it would be something to consider. But with a 16 ft boat, you should also consider how much weight you put in the boat. A 16 ft Lund will probably come in between 1000-1200 pounds dry and your max motor will be in the 75-90 HP range. Moving this boat with a trolling motor will be a breeze and adding an extra batter may bog it down when your family is with you, especially if all the batteries are in the back. I'd go with the max motor regardless.

Have you been to Lund's site? You can really find out a great deal on your boat. Things the dealer tries to get away with not telling you and things you may not know that you need to know, if that makes sense.. LOL

lundboats.com

Tell us the model, and we'll be able to give more specific advise.

BTW, Lunds are the best as far as Aluminum boats. You are really smart picking a Lund. Everyone has a high regard for them and you will have excelent resale value when you are ready to move up.

Thanks for the good advice. The model I am looking at is the Furry 1600SS. It is a little more basic but I think more practical for our needs. Plus instead of getting things like a basic trolling motor or fish finder included like with some of the more expensive models, I can pick and buy my own model bring it to the dealer and he has agreed to install if for me.

[artcarney_agr]

I will be towing it with a decent sized truck. I just wanted to make sure that it was normal for boat trailers to often not use brakes. Sounds like it is, thank you.

Brakes are more of a luxury item, and common with heavier fiberglass boats usually on a tandem axle trailer.

A decent sized pickup truck with a fairly wide wheel base will be more than sufficient, especially with an aluminum boat.

A little car tying to stop quickly with a heavy boat pushing it during braking can cause the car to sway and make staying in a lane difficult.

[SLP]

Brakes are more of a luxury item, and common with heavier fiberglass boats usually on a tandem axle trailer.

A decent sized pickup truck with a fairly wide wheel base will be more than sufficient, especially with an aluminum boat.

A little car tying to stop quickly with a heavy boat pushing it during braking can cause the car to sway and make staying in a lane difficult.

Thanks, that is good to know. That is what I was told from the dealer, but I just wanted to make sure, not having ever towed one before.

[Duayne]

Thanks for the good advice. The model I am looking at is the Furry 1600SS. It is a little more basic but I think more practical for our needs. Plus instead of getting things like a basic trolling motor or fish finder included like with some of the more expensive models, I can pick and buy my own model bring it to the dealer and he has agreed to install if for me.

OK Gotcha.. Rigging that boat with a trolling motor will be a snap and it looks like it comes pre-rigged with the harness. I'd definately go with a 12 volt motor on that boat. I'd look at something like the new Minn Kota edge, in the 55 pound thrust range with the foot control.

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...ount/edge.aspx

I would also consider getting the quick disconnect mount for the trolling motor. I'd call it a must if you aren't keeping the rig in the garage.

Are you getting the tiller, or the console?

You will be just fine without brakes on the trailer of that rig..

[SLP]

I would also consider getting the quick disconnect mount for the trolling motor. I'd call it a must if you aren't keeping the rig in the garage.

That makes sense, so it isn't stolen, right? What about the outboard, can you lock it to the boat in some way for the same reason? Do I buy that when I buy the trolling motor model, or from the dealer with installation?

Are you getting the tiller, or the console?

Console, I don't think my back (I have back and neck problems) could take twisted around all day

You will be just fine without brakes on the trailer of that rig..

Thanks again for the reassurance. I want to be safe for sure.

[Duayne]

Exactly, you can at least take the trolling motor and depth finder off and store them safely. I don't know of an outboard motor lock but I bet they have one. You can also get a great trailer lock for 15 bucks or so.

Good call on the console. I'd see if there is room to store the batteries and a charger in there. It gets the weight out of the back of the boat.

[Big T @ E.C.]

Regarding your locking your outboard. I've seen a lock for them, it looks like a piece of square tubing, about 12" - 16" long, steel, and about 1 1/2" to 2" in diameter. It goes over the clamps of the outboard. If you can't find one, i'm sure one of the guys on here could either make one, or locate one for you. As you can tell, the majority of us like to help out a brother or sister fisherman.
Ramps' at nolin you can use moutidier, brier creek, or the one at the dam
all winter long... Tr

[SLP]

Thanks for all the help. You guys have all been great, I really appreciate it!

You will probably get sick of me by the time I quit asking questions.

[smashdn]

Without having to start another thread, I'll ask a second question here and hope it gets seen.

How hard is it to launch a boat in winter time when the lakes are low? Are certain ramps designed for the lower water levels?

Thanks again

Malone doesn't drop so no issues there.

On Barren, Bailey's Point, State Park, Peninsula are all ramps that I have personally launched from in the winter when Barren is at its lowest. Walnut Creek and Browns Ford you won't be able to do. Maybe not Austin-Tracy but I am not 100% sure there. I have also never put in at Narrows during the winter. I have never put in at Beaver or the Port Oliver ramp. You probably aren't going to be able to put in above Hwy 100 (Not technically the lake) ever. I hope that helps some.

Main thing on Barren is watch for a big south wind in the area around the State Park. That long realatively straight stretch of water creates the biggest waves. Big but nothing on the magnitude that you could see at KY or Barkley.

[HURRICANEBOB]

[QUOTE=SLP;470242]What about the outboard, can you lock it to the boat in some way for the same reason?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSAusJVGXFs

Just and example, with a film to help see how it installs

[SLP]

**Update**

Well I went ahead and placed my order for the boat. It has to be made in the factory and should be ready in a couple of months.

I just wanted to thank everyone that was so helpful in answering so many of my questions and offering such good advice. I really do appreciate it.

Next up, learning how to fish these lakes.

[Moveon]

Thanks.

With that setup can I still just plug it into a normal household outlet to charge? I think my garage does have a 30 amp outlet in there in addition to the normal ones.

Just remember that it's best to slow charge batteries rather than to fast charge them. Heat is the enemy of batteries.

You may need to have 8 gauge wires for the trolling motor and remember if all your batteries are in the rear of the boat you may have close to 16 ft of wiring to run the wires up to the front of the boat. Alternatively you could have a transom mounted trolling motor vs a bow mounted trolling motor. I'm not very familar with the front of the Lund boats. I've only seen one Lund boat down here where I fish a lot and it belongs to our local Game Warden.