Where can I find marine grade plywood

[QUOTE=HURRICANEBOB;472368]Lowe's info, if not in store they will order for you to pickup there.

15/32 x 4 x 8 Marine ABX PlywoodItem #: 12344 | Model #: LBR12344
$57.28

Be careful about the treated wood, because the stuff its treated with can cause galvanic corsion long term, and its hardderd to get marine adhesives for carpet to stick to it.

Treated plwood sheet =
4ft x 8ft x 1/2in Fir CDX Treated PlywoodItem #: 202760 | Model #: 202760 $24.97
Eitehr way, good luck man.[/QUOTE]
You work at Lowes? Just wondering as you had all that info.

[QUOTE=coombro;472382]Pressure treated does bow a bit. Peter had a post about pressure treated wood and aluminum a while back. Seems he had some issues with it if I recall correctly. LK Tapp and son's has it in Elizabethtown. Last i priced it was $90 for a 3/4 4x8 sheet, however you cut it you have to seal cut edges. And it is heavy.[/QUOTE]

Please do a search on this board for pressure treated plywood and aluminum or google pressure treated plywood galvanic corrosion or something like that. The wood asociation does not even recommend putting today's treated wood on contact with amuminum siding on a house-- it contains less arsenic and a lot more copper since 2006. Copper + aluminum + water = electrical charge that eats holes in aluminum pretty quick. I would not get today's pressure treated wood of any sort any where close to a an aluminum boat including carpet trailer bunks. I presume your boat is aluminum?

I would look into some of that vynil flooring that looks like carpet that they are using in some of the newer boats as well..

There has been reports of pressure treated plywood that is not marine grade eating up the aluminum on boats where decks and floors has been replaced.

I am getting an education on this topic with the help of you guys and some others as far as using treated wood for this project... To answer peters question, yes the cross beams the floor fastens to is aluminum... I actually never knew there was a dis-similar metal issue involved with the treated wood... I have taken the old flooring out and there doesn't seem to be any problem with the structure underneath... Now I'm concerned with the bolts and washers that have to be used to bolt the floor to the cross members... I am planning on using stainless steel elevator bolts and nuts but was going to use standard plated washers from the local hardware store, the washers and bolts that were on the thing were rusted solid but there wasn't any damage to the aluminum... Should I be concerned about this or is that just a monster in my mind?... Both me and the pontoon have had several birthdays so another 15 or 20 years would be about the outer limits of how long this project needs to last.

Can't say I know a lot about it, but my thinking is you go with the stuff that is manufactured for the purpose you're using it for. In other words, don't cut corners; pay the few extra bucks and get the marine plywood.

Here is the number for The Wooden Boat Shop - (513) 941-7281.

[QUOTE=coombro;472383]You work at Lowes? Just wondering as you had all that info.[/QUOTE]

Nope, I'm a fed. I just used the Lowe's page and did some legwork.

[QUOTE=Hlleonard;472396]I am getting an education on this topic with the help of you guys and some others as far as using treated wood for this project... To answer peters question, yes the cross beams the floor fastens to is aluminum... I actually never knew there was a dis-similar metal issue involved with the treated wood... I have taken the old flooring out and there doesn't seem to be any problem with the structure underneath... Now I'm concerned with the bolts and washers that have to be used to bolt the floor to the cross members... I am planning on using stainless steel elevator bolts and nuts but was going to use standard plated washers from the local hardware store, the washers and bolts that were on the thing were rusted solid but there wasn't any damage to the aluminum... Should I be concerned about this or is that just a monster in my mind?... Both me and the pontoon have had several birthdays so another 15 or 20 years would be about the outer limits of how long this project needs to last.[/QUOTE]

Hiley, recommend the stainless. No rust issues as you noted you had, and another thought. If you carpet over the deck and fasteners, and the fastners rust, you can get some real ugly rust bleed thru the carpet.

Maybe look at it this way, as you noted 15-20 years is a desire, why not use the best stuff available to do it so you're less likely to have to do it again?

Just a thought, wish ya the best either way.

Thanks guys... I have pretty much made the decision to use the stainless fasteners, I am still up in the air about the panels as of now, I keep reading that the marine grade plywood is more susceptible to deterioration than the treated panels... Found the website of a dealer who claims to sell the old recipe of pressure treated plywood specifically for pontoon floors, supposedly it doesn't have the amount of copper in it that the newer PT stuff does and won't damage the aluminum as the new product does... Supposedly you can still buy the plywood with the same recipe that was used before the EPA got into the mix around 2003 or so, it is called CCA and the newer material that is causing the problem contains a higher concentrate or copper and is called ACQ or something like that so I am still in a learning mode as of now... Thanks for the phone number of the wooden boat shop in case I need it... I have all winter to get this project finished so hopefully I will know what I am doing before spring fishing season gets here.

When I lived in louisiana my buddys aould coat there shrimp nets with a prouduct called "copper neptune" at least thats what they called it. It's a liquid product app liable by a paint brush. It turns wood green like the treated lumber. I used it for my floor boards and deck on my aluminum boat. Bad thing about treated wood is it's usually still wet in a sence and will dry out shrink and or bow. Used it on my application and it has held up up great. Now my deck and floor boards are removeable so everything can get a good drying out when need be. Maybe an option and may have the higher copper in it also. Thought I'd let you know. Soaks right into the lumber. Thin as water to apply.

[QUOTE=coombro;472447]When I lived in louisiana my buddys aould coat there shrimp nets with a prouduct called "copper neptune" at least thats what they called it. It's a liquid product app liable by a paint brush. It turns wood green like the treated lumber. I used it for my floor boards and deck on my aluminum boat. Bad thing about treated wood is it's usually still wet in a sence and will dry out shrink and or bow. Used it on my application and it has held up up great. Now my deck and floor boards are removeable so everything can get a good drying out when need be. Maybe an option and may have the higher copper in it also. Thought I'd let you know. Soaks right into the lumber. Thin as water to apply.[/QUOTE]
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Thanks... There might be a number of things that may make it possible to use the PT which from what I am finding out will holdup in the long run better than the marine grade,odd why they put that name on the stuff and it isn't treated against decay or rot from what I can tell... There is a material called yella@wood or something like that which is supposed to be a treated product and safe for use with aluminum and another called micronised pressure treated that is also but so far haven't found out if they are produced in plywood form or not.. So far the only material that is easy to get is the one that I can't use... I have had several "redneck" ideas so far, like putting something between the aluminum and the wood like a strip of rubber but that's just my mind wandering around.

You will kick yourself later. It's simple....Marine grade plywood. Use a fiberglass resin to seal edges after you cut it. Use a marine grade sealer on all wood before you assemble. All stainless screws and hardware. Anything less and you will regret it in a few years. My .02€