I try to let my worm wiggle as often as possible, but it still ain't enough.

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Don't forget about the worm that wiggles. I say this because when the bite is slow on artificals, the live crawler works when nothing else does. Most of the time I keep a live bait rod in the boat for this very reason. It allows me more options when fish are difficult.
When you are graphing fish that will not hit on artificals, maybe the simple crawler is the answer. Remember crawlers are high in protein and are easy to catch and swallow...no bones, no claws or spines to obstruct in passage. The crawler should be rigged by running the hook through the tip of the head or tip of the tail. This is important because it allows the crawler to wiggle naturally. Remember, you are dealing with fish that really are not interested in eating, and when a wiggling crawler comes floating naturally down in front of them, the taste buds start to react.
This brings us to a point I am sure like me you have done many times. You keep that same crawler on for hours until either you get tired of fishing the crawler or a bluegill finally rips it off. You must keep a fresh worm on at all times. When the crawler becomes lethargic, replace the crawler. It is also important to target your fish carefully to minimize the gill action. Water temperature will effect a crawler's wiggle. Extreme cold or hot water will cause the crawler to become less active.
There are a few very important aspects to crawler fishing. One is you must fish the crawler very slow. Only use short twitching motions or drags with a pause in between. You should allow for a pause between 3 and 5 seconds at the minimun and allow 3 to 5 minutes between retrieves. If you are sure your are on top of the fish, do not move the crawler at all...let the worm do the moving. This is another reason you need an active worm.
I get a lot of grief from some of my fishing friends because I use light and Ultralight equipment. This year when fishing with with live bait with 6 to 8 lb line I outfished everyone else. I like an ultralight with some backbone but still has a sensitive tip. I also like a flurocarbon leader in clear water. It is also best not to use a weight, and there again, you must be patient to allow the worn to settle to the level of the fish. If you are fishing current drift, you may want to put a small weight on, but as minimal as possible. I use 4 to 6 circle hooks in dark color on my light equipment, and 1 to 2 hooks on my medium outfits. If a fish should swallow a hook, I cut the line and leave the hook and realese the fish. I have caught bass over 6 lbs on my GLoomis ultralight, but you must have a good reel with a good drag to do so. I am getting to the point, it is the fight that is important, not if I actually land the fish. When you have a big bass on light equipment, it is truly ultra!
Remember to fish the crawler slow with short twitches or drags. Fish with active crawlers and fish with as little weight as possible. Take your time, let your worm wiggle and hold on!
Last edited by Bonefish; 12-05-2007 at 04:31 PM.
I try to let my worm wiggle as often as possible, but it still ain't enough.
Thanks for the information. I'll try to keep it in mind, but darn, its difficult to slow down and think like a fish, when we are all pumped up on getting a strike??. Guess that is why I like casting top water baits in the spring time.
Gary
I know what you mean, Boone. If you can graph the fish first and then apply the slow techniques then I can handle that for awhile, if you are just dragging a worm around without targeting the fish, it gets way too slow for me.
At first i thought this was another post we needed to send an alert on! Great info...in the Spring a big nightcrawler hook wacky style does wonders around shallow cover as well.![]()
mhall, if I couldn't buy those Canadian wild wigglers and have to depend on my home grown wiggler, I would be in trouble.
